tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26959480673696337692023-06-20T21:51:07.542-07:00Cook ZucchiniAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05836530204685420918noreply@blogger.comBlogger2782125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2695948067369633769.post-24747103653374416202014-03-12T20:45:00.009-07:002014-03-12T21:39:51.328-07:00what-is-the-difference-between-thwn-thhn-wire<br><br />Just wondering what is the difference and what is better for my different applications.<br />Thanks.<br /> <br />W indicates sutiable for use in wet locations.<br /> <br />most thhn wire is dual rated as thwn.<br />check to be sure the wire you purchase is so.<br /> <br />THHN is a code for heat-resistant thermoplastic wire which is allowed for use in dry to damp locations and rated for a maximum temperature of 90єC (194єF).<br />THWN is a code for heat- and moisture-resistant thermoplastic wire which is allowed for use in both dry and wet locations but has a lower maximum temperature rating of 75єC (167єF).<br />As nap said, wire can be dual rated (THHN/THWN). Be careful not to misread the code as there are similar ones for different type wires (such as THHW) while others have suffixes (such as -2) which change the wire’s rating.<br /> <br />the temperature usually also indicated on the wire?<br /> <br />I don't recall seeing a temp rating on the wire I generally use although it could be. Never really paid that much attention to it. I'll have to take a look.<br />The temp rating I have is within the NEC.<br /> <br />So if the wire is dual rated thhn thwn is it usually 75C or 90C and/or is it <br />If the wire is duel rated it can be used at 75 c if used in a wet location or 90 if used in a dry location.<br />THHN/THWN-2 can be used at the 90 deg rating in a wet or dry location.<br />Keep in mind that the 90 deg columb is rarely if ever the final amp rating for a given wire size. In DIY work, it will likely never be the final amp rating of the wire. The purpose of the 90 deg columb is for a starting point when doing bundling, ambient temp, etc calculations.<br />If running conduit and individual conductors, most of the time the limit will be the 75 deg columb, as the lugs on the equipment will only have a 75 deg rating.<br />If running NM or NMB cable (romex) the limit will be the 60 deg columb, regardless of the wire type.<br /> <br />Apologies in advance for slightly hijacking this thread but is dual rated acceptable for over head (in air) use to supply power to another structure? (Four # 10 suppling a 30 amp sub panel for example.)<br /> <br />duel rated just means rated for more than one thing. If the wire is duel rated for thhn/thwn, then no not for overhead wiring. If the wire is duel rated for overhead and something else then yes.<br /> <br />Ray,<br />Overhead wiring must carry a UV/sunlight exposure rating which THHN/THWN does not have.<br />Overhead wires must also be supported by a load-bearing messenger wire which is only included in the triplex/quadplex cable assemblies that are sold for overhead services.<br /> <br />ibpooks, thanks for figuring out my somewhat unclear post. (I left out THHN/THWN). So I'm assuming the way I learned with individual conductors fastened to individual insulators is no longer permitted.<br />I assume if you were running to a garage with other metallic pathways you'd need a four wire cable assembly. I doubt fourplex even exist when you get down as small as #10, correct? Dang, didn't want to go the burial route.<br /> <br /> I assume if you were running to a garage with other metallic pathways<br /> you'd need a four wire cable assembly.<br />Yes. It's highly recommended anyway.<br /> I doubt fourplex even exist when you get down as small as #10, correct?<br />The smallest I've seen is #2 aluminum which is rated for 100A as a dwelling feeder. In any case, I hardly ever recommend feeding an outbuilding with anything less than #2 aluminum.<br />If you really want a smaller feeder, I know the power company uses #4 aluminum, so you might be able to get your hands on that somewhere.<br /> <br />Thanks all. Guess I'll have to dig.<br /> <br />I think anxiter wire and cable or windy city both sell retail.<br />Let your fingers do the walking. if a wire is made, those two companies can get you some.<br />Quadplex is fairly common, but as stated not in smaller sizes.<br /><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/8skhtHUZ5QE&list=PL959AB2534AEC6BE3" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/8skhtHUZ5QE&list=PL959AB2534AEC6BE3" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br /><b>Tags</b>: difference, thwn, thhn, wire, dual rated, duel rated, wire cable, wire dual, wire dual rated, wire duel, wire duel ratedAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05836530204685420918noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2695948067369633769.post-58606849313917895452014-03-12T20:45:00.008-07:002014-03-12T21:42:09.161-07:00Stepup Transformer<br><br />Does anyone know if there exists a step-up transformer to get 220V from a 120V recepticle? If there is one do you know where I can get one online?<br />I have found step-up transformers online but they are all for running 220V European appliances from 120V North American power sources. What I need is a step-up that will take 120V U.S and step it up to 220V U.S. to run a compressor I bought.<br />Thanks<br />Mike<br /> <br />Youll be much better off to run a dedicated circuit that is properly sized for this load. If this compressor requires 20 amps at 240v then a 20 amp 120v circuit will simply not do no matter what transformer you use. Even then if it were possible to do as you wish the transformers cost in this application would probably be very cost prohibitive.<br /> <br />Dave is correct, you can certanly step up the voltage to 220V, but your 120V circuit will probably not have the necessary gauge to supply that current. In which case you'll have to change your 120V circuit to handle your doubled current.<br /> <br />With such a 2:1 (roughly) step-up transformer, every amp you draw from the 220V (secondary) side will pull 2A from the 120V circuit.<br /> <br />Thanks everyone.<br />I guess I should have gave more information in my original post.<br />This compressor is a 1/2 hp silent compressor and is rated at 2.9 amps @ 220V. With those ratings it will only be drawing a scant 638 watts so there should be no problem running it with a 1,000 watt transformer.<br />The problem I have found though is that the step-up transformers are designed to step up North American 120V to European 220V I believe. The web site here:<br />Voltage converters<br />says under the 'FAQ's' that you cannot run an American 220V dryer off of the transformers because they are designed for single-phase 220V current and American 220V has two 110V circuits to make the 220V.<br />So I am assuming that these transformers are made for North American to European conversion and will not work for North American only conversion correct?<br />Mike<br /> <br />It depends. Your compressor only needs straight 240v so the european setup would work just fine because dryers need both 240v for the elements and 120v for the motor and timer. Your compressor doesnt need 120v at all so the 240v supplied by the transformer would work fine.<br />Just be sure that this is an actual transformer and not some cheap converter because those converters use electronics for their transformation.<br />I still think it would be better to run a dedicated circuit because a 1 KVA transformer is pretty bulky and costly as well.<br /> <br />Dave,<br />Thanks for the reply.<br />The transformer I was considering was at the link I posted above and sells for under $60.<br />I don't know if it is an actual transformer or not but it weighs 20 lbs so I am assuming it is. Here is the link to it:<br />1,000 watt voltage transformer<br />About that answer you gave me in regards to the American dryer the web site says this in the FAQ's:<br />Can I connect an American 220 Volt Dryer to a Transformer?<br />No you cannot connect an American 220 Volt Dryer to a Transformer. Voltage Transformers are made to convert single phase 110 or 220 volt. American 220 volt consists of 2 phase of 110 volt and European 220 volt consists of 1 phase of 220 volt.<br />Is this different from what you said in regards to a dryer?<br />Mike<br /> <br />It does look like a real transformer. There is really no difference between the european 220V and the US 220V when put on a scope (actually the US should be 240V, but generally is lower). They should both look like a nice sine wave.<br /> <br />Originally posted by trinitro<br />It does look like a real transformer. There is really no difference between the european 220V and the US 220V when put on a scope (actually the US should be 240V, but generally is lower). They should both look like a nice sine wave.<br />I realize that but does it make a difference in that the European 220V only uses two wires to get the 220V and we use two sets of two wires to get 220V? Would that in essence be creating a dual-phase 220V since there are two sets of single-phase wires?<br />I am not an electrician so I am having a bit of trouble figuring this out. I took some electronics years ago at a junior college but I never got into what phases do in electric motors.<br />Mike<br /> <br />The info your reading is misleading.<br />We use just 2 wires to get 240v as well.<br />You cant connect the dryer because the dryer requires 240v PLUS 120v. In other words the 240v is for the heating elements, it is obtained between 2 wires with 240v between them. The timer and motor require 120v, it is obtained between 2 wires with 120v between them.<br />An American system has 3 wires. 2 hots and a neutral. From one hot to the other hot youll get 240v. From any hot to the neutral youll get 120v.<br />In a European system you have 2 wires. From one hot to the other youll have 240v.<br />Your compressor has no requirement at all for 120v, meaning all that compressor motor needs is 240v. Your compressor also only needs 2 wires to operate. If all you get from the transformer is 240v and all your load needs is 240v then you have absolutely no problem. The neutral is NOT essential for proper operation of a straight 240v load.<br />There is no magic about it at this level. The transformer gives you the required voltage for the equipment. Your not dealing with a dryer.<br />The transformer will only provide you with 2 wires with 240v between them. The dryer will not work because the transformer doesnt provide the proper tap that supplies 120v to run its timer and motor. A load such as your compressor that doesnt require 120v for operation will work just fine.<br />If you look on your compressor plug you should see 3 prongs. 2 are the leads to the motor and the third will be the equipment ground. There is not a 4th prong for the 120v load.<br />This also brings up grounding. With this transformer you are creating a seperatley derived system and it should be grounded accordingly. Make sure that this is taken care of by the manufacturer.<br /> <br />Thanks Dave.<br />I appreciate the help.<br />I think they need to re-word that question as it doesn't make much sense. I am calling them tomorrow to see what they say about the unit being grounded, etc.<br />Mike<br /> <br />Dave,<br />I called the manufacturer today that makes that step-up transformer and asked the person if I could run a 220V compressor off the transformer and he said no. LOL<br />He said it is specifically made to run European single-phase 220 off of American single-phase 110. I don't think he knows what he is talking about.<br />When I got home this afternoon I looked at the ratings on the back of the motor of this compressor and it says it is rated for 185-240V and 50Hz! This IS a European motor after all.<br />Mike<br /> <br />Why not simply run you 220V compressor off a regula 220V outlet? It will run a bit faster, but it will work just fine.<br /> <br />trinitro,<br />That is what I was planning on doing if I had to.<br />The thing is that I would like it to be portable if possible since it is an airbrush compressor and if I needed to paint something for someone such as a mural on a wall then I would need to be able to bring the compressor. Finding a 220V dryer plug could be difficult in many instances.<br />Mike<br /> <br />The step up unit should work also, if it's drawing 2.9A at 220V it will draw 5.8A off the 120V line (more actually since the step up Xtrasformer is not 100% efficient). Realistically all you really need is a transformer which will provide you with the necessary number of windings, and can handle your current. Just make sure whatever you get can handle at least 5A at 220V as your motor will try to draw a large amount of power at startup.<br /> <br />Take a very close look at the motor. Many of them have internal wiring connections to make them run off 110v.<br />To help clarify the difference between north ammerica and europe think of a center tap transformer. That is the system we use in NA. The center tap is the neutral.<br /> <br />I contacted one of the top silent compressor techs in the country today and he said that the problem I am really facing is running this 50Hz motor on 60Hz current!<br />He said it would not last that long on our 60Hz current here in the U.S, although the guy I bought it from said he had another one exactly like it and he ran it for 3 years with no problems.<br />Mike<br /> <br />Where did this machine come from?<br />You bought in the US, correct?<br />Would there be any chance of changing the motor, and replacing it with a 60Hz motor, either 120 or dual-voltage?<br />The reason the customerSupport may have said no to running a significant motor off of the converter, may have to do with the internal design of the unit.<br />I question what these converters were designed for, if not euro. apps. I am inclined to say go ahead with the converter at your own risk.<br />-- How about warranties, and return policies? ****<br />gj<br /> <br />Gj,<br />Thanks for the reply.<br />I bought this compressor used from a guy who lives about 90 miles from me. The unit was manufactured in 1991 so the warranty is past. I could change the motor but it is extremely expensive as these Jun-Air compressors are manufactured in Denmark and the motor alone sells for $850 new!<br />Mike<br /> <br />I was implying a US motor. How odd is the design of the motor?<br />Are there other electronic controls that will be affected by changing the voltage?<br /> <br />I wouldn't even begin to attempt that.<br />These are oil-filled units with the motor, and piston inside a cast iron head and I highly doubt a U.S. retrofit would work.<br />Mike<br /><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/rEfBCqoiRFI" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/rEfBCqoiRFI" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br /><b>Tags</b>: transformer, look like, North American, will work, 220V compressor, between them, difference between, from 120V, just fine, phase volt, step-up transformer, this compressor, wires with, work justAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05836530204685420918noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2695948067369633769.post-56373308037728670612014-03-12T20:45:00.007-07:002014-03-12T21:41:57.833-07:00Repair Man Ripoffgas Smartvalve<br><br />I recently had a repair man out to work on my furnace. I have an Armstrong 92.5 eff gas furnace, and it is about 7 years old. My honeywell smartvalve went bad. he said the valve would cost $629.00 to replace, plus the time it took to do it. I have looked up on the internet, and these valves are between $165.00 and $300.00. Is this sort of markup usuall, or did I get taken? The partnumber is sv9520h8042.<br /> <br />When I was running my own furnace repair business, I usually had a minimum 100% markup for expensive parts such as gas valves and such. Cheap parts were marked up several times their cost.<br />Did the repairman have the part you needed with him? If so, that's worth a lot. It means you get your furnace back on line right away rather than waiting days for the part to be located and another service call to be scheduled and paid for.<br />How did you pay for the labor on this service call? Was it a free diagnosis of the problem? That kind of come on is a racket.<br />Frankly, consumers are in a bad bargaining position when their furnace isn't working. You can look up the cost of a part on the internet at your leisure, but few people are going to be willing to be left in a cold house in order to do that and then shop around for someone to come out and install a part at a cheap price.<br />And it costs money to maintain inventories. I still have a basement full of furnace parts left over from my furnace repair business --- and I quit doing that work for the most part ten years ago.<br />So you want cheap parts? I have them available. YOU can buy them and hold onto them until you might need them!<br /> <br />You said that you got taken. That would imply he did the work and you actually got a bill from him. Yet you only gave us the cost of what he said just the valve would cost, and not what his time also cost. So did he or didn't he replace the valve?<br /> <br />Sounds like you encountered a flat rater. These guys have a fixed price for replacing a given part. It matters not if it takes them 10 minutes or 10 hours. For most repairs they are WAY higher than the time materials repair people.<br /><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/1_A1ky3AYBc" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/1_A1ky3AYBc" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br /><b>Tags</b>: repair, smartvalve, cost what, furnace repair, furnace repair business, repair business, service call, valve would, valve would cost, would costAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05836530204685420918noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2695948067369633769.post-73529786202997447952014-03-12T20:45:00.006-07:002014-03-12T21:39:16.916-07:00opinions-waterboss-water-softeners<br><br />I'm having a hard time finding much information or opinions about WaterBoss water softeners. Their website has quite a bit of info about the system and how it works. I like the fact that it's smaller, uses a different valve/system than GE/Kenmore/Whirlpool/etc., and is supposedly programmed to use less salt, regenerate on demand, use less water, and cycle in much less time. However, I don't really know anything about its reliability and reputation. My friendly neighborhood Home Depot is now selling these at close to the same prices as the GEs. My current GE has been giving me headaches for a long time, and I'm trying to decide whether to repair it or replace it.<br />Any opinions on the WaterBoss systems would be greatly appreciated.<br /> <br />WaterBoss softeners are nice and compact, and the computer control is decent, but the construction and materials used in the valve and tank are shoddy. I bought one back in '98, and a year later resin beads started to appear in my water system. As the tank has a 5 or 10 year warranty they graciously offered me a new unit, which I picked up at the late great local HomeBase.<br />I installed the new unit, and barely 2 days later the brine tank began to overflow. It turned out that the seal for the bottom of the tank had been improperly placed and water was leaking out. I had to go through the trouble of emptying all the salt and brine and taking the thing out and reseating the seal, just because a worker installed it wrong and quality control failed to notice it.<br />Then... Almost precisely 3 years later, just after the warranty on the valve expired... the brine tank started overflowing again. This time, something was wrong with the venturi system, and it was forcing water into the tank rather than drawing a vacuum dirung the brining cycle. I called WB and they walked me through a rather elaborate procedure to measure the water output during certain parts of the cycle. Based on that they said the end-cap or piston was damaged. I disassembled the valve and found neither to show any sign of damage. But that was all the company would offer, and they said since it was out of warranty I would have to fork over over $40 just to see. At that point I decided I had had enough and unloaded the lemon, never to purchase a WaterBoss again! I went without soft water for a while till this week when I picked up a used Rainsoft system for a decent price.<br />If I was going the new route, I would spend a little extra and buy a system online that uses a Fleck computerized demand control valve. I have not had experience with these personally but have heard nothing but good things about Fleck. In general, the softeners at the Big Box outlets are of lower quality construction and will develop problems sooner. That's what I've heard (and experienced...)<br /> <br />I installed a Waterboss 700 three years ago and it has been operating trouble free ever since. Installation and configuration was easy, and I really like the small footprint compared to the separate resin tank / salt storage tank it replaced.<br />I've also had under sink Waterboss inline filtration system installed for 3 years. They no longer sell the undersink system, but I contact their customer service periodically for replacement filters. Filters are expensive, but customer service is great.<br /> <br />I am a relatively happy Water Boss owner. It is my first softner so I can't judge it in comparison to any others. Only problem was an intermitant home finding problem. Basically, after regeneration it could not find its home setting. I called them and they sent a new magnet wheel. After the problem got progressively worse I installed the new wheel and all is well with my water boss. No leaks or any other problems. Only 3 of us in the house so water useage I would call as low. Continue to be a happy owner.<br /> <br />I have two neighbors who bought Waterboss 900s and another who bought a Watts Premier Soft-Tek (same design - maybe same thing). They made their choice based on the smaller size of those softeners (sort of a snub-nose design). They just didn't have room for a conventional size softener and they liked buying locally. They all realized that the Big Box Store would be of little use as far as service after the sale and believed the idea that a large corporation with adequate staff and an inventory of parts was as good or better than buying mail order on the net from a seller who stocks no parts. Another reason they relayed to me was that at least they could inspect the softener before taking it home rather than waiting to see if UPS crunched one if they bought mail order.<br />The two Waterbosses are 3 years old and the Watts is 2 years old. All three have been working properly and been pretty frugal with salt. All are using KCl instead of NaCl. We are all on the same 25g hardness water with no iron.<br />One Waterboss owner had a minor problem and called the toll-free number. He spoke to a tech (in English) who identified the problem and FedExed him the part. It was in his hand at 10 AM the next morning and 10 minutes later the problem was resolved.<br />When shopping for my softener I wasn't interested in any of the pre-packed proprietary softeners like the Waterboss or even a Sears. I have to admit that their softeners work exactly like mine on the same water. All our softeners make the same water soft and seem to work without much attention other than adding KCl.<br />Seems like a lot of these pre-packed softeners are sold and you don't see much bad press or class action lawsuits.<br /> <br />I have owned a Waterboss 950, which is for city water, for about two years. It does a fantastic job of taking all of the hardness out of the water. It also does a fantastic job of removing chlorine. Actually I bought it as much for the chlorine removal as for the soft water. In case you are not aware of it you actually absorb more chlorine in your system through your skin by taking a shower than you do in drinking city water.<br />The Waterboss is so much more efficient than any other water treatment system out there. For my wife and I a 40 pound bag of salt lasts about 10 months. I can hardly blieve how efficiently it uses salt.<br />One of the nicest things about having it is when I wash my car there are absolutely no water spots on it. Other tremendous advantages are that I only need to use about one fifth the amount of detergent in the clothes washer and the dish washer.<br />Also, I do not have itchy skin in the winter time like I used to. I live in Montana where the winter air gets pretty dry. My wife also loves the way it leaves her skin feeling (I love the way it leaves her skin feeling too). The savings on soap and shampoo in the shower are the same as the savings in the clothes and dish washers.<br />I couldn't be happier with the Waterboss. Also, with the directional flow screens that it uses there is no seepage of unsoftened water like the age old design that Culigan or all of the other manufacturers use. In the regeneration mode it actually uses conditioned water to regenerate with. This makes sure that the media is totally regenerated.<br />I hope this helps. I probably sound like a salesman for Waterboss. I am not. I just really like what it does for us.<br />Sincerely,<br />Steve G<br /> <br />Steve,<br />Great that things are working out for you with your WaterBoss. One of my customers has three in his basement and couldn't bare to buy the fourth, and that was only in 9 years.<br />It sounds like you are on city water so it is understandable how you could use such little salt. The resin bed is packed so it will be more efficient on light hardness with little or no iron. I never recommend these with 1 ppm iron or more. He had 26 grains hardness and 3 ppm iron.<br />How does it remove the chlorine? Does the tank contain carbon?<br />My question is, how, with only one tank, can it regenerate with softened water. It may fill the brine drum with softened water but I cannot see how it can regenerate with water that is not available at that time. Just curious on how it can do that.<br />Andy Christensen, CWS-II<br /> <br />Originally Posted by justalurker<br />The two Waterbosses are 3 years old and the Watts is 2 years old. All three have been working properly and been pretty frugal with salt.<br />An addendum... the two Waterboss softeners have died after repeated and annoying problems with no easy resolution. The Watts softener is still operating but very tired and showing it's age.<br />IMO these snub nose softeners are better suited to slightly hard water than hardness above 5gpg.<br />In all three instances I believe industry standard softeners with Fleck control valves would be barely broken in after a few years of softening 25gpg hard water.<br />All three people have replaced their softeners with Fleck based industry standard units and are enjoying soft water again.<br /> <br />From: J Pease 2008<br />I had used the WaterBoss system on our Well Water for about 11 years. My well had 8 ppm clear water Iron with a hardness of 18 grains per gallon. Before buying a WaterBoss, I had a Sears Iron Filter along with a Sears Water Softener System. Luckily, I had both under a service contract as they broke just about every month causing rust in our water system. After a year of fighting this problem, I replaced both units with a model 700 WaterBoss. To my amase, all my problems were solved. The system worked wonderful and I was able to get rid of the Iron Filter because the WaterBoss handled that issue. I sold our home in 2002 and as far as I know it is still doing its job.<br />We bought an Avion 5th Wheel Travel Trailer to travel during retirement. We lived in it full time for almost 4 years. Traveling, we experienced water problems at different campgrounds. I installed a Waterboss 700 in our 37 ft. Avion 5th Wheel. It worked great and eliminated the water quality issue. We sold the Travel Trailer and have since bought a home in a mobile home condo community that has a central well system with treatment for bacteria using chlorine. They supply water to all the Homeowners. It is hard water 14 grains per gallon and also contains a chlorine from the treatment. I install a model 950 WaterBoss on my system it works great. I no longer have chlorine tasting water. After a long experience with water treatment I would not use anything except a WaterBoss.<br />J Pease<br /> <br />I posted before i saw this post.<br />I would also like to know if you can water plants with soft water or if the system has to designed to switch away from it. How many people that have water softeners buy drinking water? or do you have to buy drinking water. I for one do not like culligans drinking water. is the 900 or 950 the way to go for city water for a family of 5?<br />anyone know of a better system than water boss? ive heard some good reports about them so far,compared to most others.<br /> <br />Originally Posted by eljoya<br />I'm having a hard time finding much information or opinions about WaterBoss water softeners. Their website has quite a bit of info about the system and how it works. I like the fact that it's smaller, uses a different valve/system than GE/Kenmore/Whirlpool/etc., and is supposedly programmed to use less salt, regenerate on demand, use less water, and cycle in much less time. However, I don't really know anything about its reliability and reputation. My friendly neighborhood Home Depot is now selling these at close to the same prices as the GEs. My current GE has been giving me headaches for a long time, and I'm trying to decide whether to repair it or replace it.<br />Any opinions on the WaterBoss systems would be greatly appreciated.<br />I owned a waterboss 900 for a few years BUT when I had a problem the company sold me a brine value which do not fix my problem, a motor which did not fix the problem a $200.00 control board which did not fix the problem and then they told me to send in the entire unit at a cost of over 100 dollars shipping and then IF the tank was bad they would fix it and send it back. Buy a Pelican which is a lot more but you don't had salt so it is healthy and won't hurt plants.<br />Bob<br /> <br />Hi. Newbie here (to this group). Thank god for the internet. I need info about my waterboss softener, and here it is.<br />I've owned my 900 for 6 years. No problems until a piece of crud jammed the turbine and stopped the unit cold. Called support and disassembled the top end and fixed the turbine. Went to plug the control unit in and no power. Turns out there is a fragile little metal clip inside next to the male prong which had broken off during disassembly and was lost. I fiddled with it and the control unit (CU) works fine if contact is made, but WB's only solution was to sell me a new board: $200 bucks. I operated on the board and fashioned a new metal clip which makes the contact, but it is rather funky chicken. Anyone out there who has a board for the 900, please contact me- I'd be interested in having a spare.<br />Nick 847-691-8120<br /> <br />BTW, the supervisor I got was a REAL JERK.<br /> <br />we also have a waterboss 900. its worked fine but recently it gets stuck in the E1 code, constantly beeps, and the motor unit makes a loud click sound.<br />does anyone know what could be causing this and how we could fix it?<br />thanks in advance.<br /> <br />Whatever is causing the click is causing the error code because the control can't move freely to wherever it needs to go. What causes that I don't know.<br />If you can't get service or don't want to, replace the thing with a correctly sized real softener using a Clack WS-1 control valve.<br />Correctly sized means that the constant SFR gpm of the softener is greater than the max peak demand gpm of the family size, number of bathrooms and type of fixtures in them.<br />The constant SFR is a function of the volume of resin in the softener. It is lower than the one that most sellers use like xx gpm @ 15 psi; for either their softener or the control valve on it. I. E. the Clack WS-1 has a 27 gpm SFR BUT, that is used to tell the dealer what size tank the control can be used on for either a filter or softener. When applied to the softener, that xx @ 15 psi is the max flow rate and the 15 psi means a pressure loss of 15 psi. But it has little to do with the softener being able to remove all the hardness in the water regardless of how much water you use at one time (the peak demand gpm at that time).<br /> <br />Originally Posted by davisa<br />we also have a waterboss 900. its worked fine but recently it gets stuck in the E1 code, constantly beeps, and the motor unit makes a loud click sound.<br />does anyone know what could be causing this and how we could fix it?<br />thanks in advance.<br />The problem you are experiencing is the exact same thing that is happening to mine. The piston on the brine valve has gotton stuck, and has now worn the drive gear. You will have to clean/replace the piston for the brine valve, and replace the drive gear. if you look at the right side back where the timer motor is, you will see the black plastic drive gear. I have to call them tomorrow to get replacement parts, since I can't seem to find parts online.<br /> <br />I have been looking at my Water Boss 900 and have the E1 code showing. E1 Home Magnet not found. I found this on page 16 of the owners manual Version 6. It states Cycle Power by unplugging the transformer and plugging it back in and it will look for Home again. If this does not fix it go to page 21 of the owners manual item 13 this is the Magnet Disk Assembly. If you look at it closely it is a cam that pushes on a rounded button sticking out of the Brine Valve Assembly whick is item 11. Look at the Magnet Disk Assembley cams, you might find the plastic cams have been destroyed and damaged because the Brine Valve Assemble plunger is jamed.<br />Take a screwdriver and push in on the plunger and make sure it is free. If it is jamed it trashed the cam on the Magnet Disk Assembley. Unplug the Power to the unit, unplug the motor from the electronic unit, remove the two screws that hold the motor and set it aside. take your fingers and manually turn the Magnet disk assembly counterclockwise and the Water Boss will manually go through its cycles. This is fresh in my mind because I just did it to mine. I am calling Water Boss tomorrow at 1-88-437-8993 to order parts and hopefully they will be free because it is less than 3 years old and should be covered by waranty. I wish you luck. If you have your manual or download the one from the Water Boss website and follow what I wrote I'm sure you will be able to follow this!!<br />This is my first repair, I can't find a local source for parts, Ace Hardware sells them acording to their website and they don't seem to share parts with other softners. The GE, Miracle, Morton, Sears etc. are all the same on the inside and I won't buy another one of them. So far the parts I will order tomorrow and every screw and the motor housing are badly rusted on the Water Boss, what a mistake not to use Stainless Steel screws and parts in a salt enviroment. It really cheapens their product.<br />Later,<br />Padroo<br /> <br />Padroo, Thank you for your excellent, detailed post. I am also having what seems to be the exact same problem. Can you give us an update? Did Waterboss stand behind their product and give you the parts you need? Did it fix the problem?<br /> <br />Installation was easy-I replaced an older water softener. Controller was a breeze and the quality of the water is amazing. I researched softeners before buying and am glad I went this model 900. Can't say enough good about it.<br /> <br />I installed a Waterboss 900 about 18 months ago and am very satisfied with it.<br />Positives: installation is well documented and simple, very efficient salt usage, regeneration cycles are amazingly quick, customer support is very knowledgeable, has been issue free since installation.<br />Negatives: regeneration is quick but loud (not really an issue if it is located in a garage or basement).<br />After hauling many, many, many bags of salt for previous timed and on-demand water softeners, I am very happy with the performance/efficiency of this product and highly recommend it.<br /> <br />My wife I are investigating replacing our 5+ year old softener. Even though it is doing a great job of conditioning the water for our household of five, (3 adults, 2 children), like many softeners, it uses a large amount of water in it's regen cycle - about 70-75 gallons every 14-16 days.<br />Since we recently had a septic drain field failure, we are trying to do everything we can to reduce the volume of water that enters the new drain field. We were in Home Depot last night and noticed that the WB 900 claims to use as little as 14 gal. of water ... to regenerate. I've done some research and haven't been able to ascertain the answers to the following questions: (1) Just how frequently does the WB initiate a regen cycle? and (2) What does the as little as part of the spec really mean? My concern is that this is one of those marketing ploys and that the unit will regen 4-6 times in the same 14-16 day period and end up using just as much (or more) water regenerating as out current unit.<br />So, WB users, what's the answer that WB won't tell me...?<br /> <br />The little as 14-16 gallons is true, on the shortest time frame of a cleaning cycle, on the simplest of water challenge, ie 2grain hard water...<br />70-75 gallons per cleaning cycle is not bad, right in line with normal systems on the market.<br />Are the non adults Teenagers?<br />Can the well handle the 75 gallon demand in the 1.5 hours that the system would be cleaning?<br />3gal for 10minutes<br />.5gal for 50 minutes<br />3gal for 6 minutes<br />3gal for 6 minutes<br />I am trying to understand what the challenge is with the water usage of the system cleaning?<br />The family of your size is most likely using 350 gallons per day, so an extra 75 every 5 days or so is a problem?<br /> <br />If your existing system is operating correctly and correctly programmed for your water conditions there is no way you will get significantly less water usage for regeneration from the WB or any other system.<br />You could however change the pattern of usage with a different system--using smaller amounts more frequently.<br /> <br />I'm not up on all the water usage and everything else. I will say that I have my second Waterboss water softener. They both worked well and I was happy with the water. The new one however came with extremely cheap worthless parts. The connections were different and required me to change out the hoses. The new hoses are no longer braided line and have really lousy compression fittings. I followed the instructions on connecting the new lines. One of the connections failed over a year ago and flooded my garage. I reattached it and had no problems for over a year until this weekend. I was out of town and again the compression fitting failed and this time flooded my house. While the water softener produces nice water, the material with the unit is junk and I would never recommend this unit to anyone.<br /> <br />Originally Posted by Akpsdvan<br />The little as 14-16 gallons is true, on the shortest time frame of a cleaning cycle, on the simplest of water challenge, ie 2grain hard water...<br />So, as with gasoline engine MPG ratings, your usage may vary , would be an accurate statement, eh?<br />Our water is fairly hard (around 300ppm Calcium Hardness), so that certainly isn't a simple water challenge.<br />Originally Posted by Akpsdvan<br />70-75 gallons per cleaning cycle is not bad, right in line with normal systems on the market.<br />That's what I thought, too. We're not 100% sure, but I have a pretty good estimate based upon some creative calculations: The softener is in a below-grade basement which uses an effluent pump to get waste water out to the septic system. Knowing how much water the effluent basin holds, and how many times the pump cycles during the overall regen cycle, gave me the number I quoted. Sometimes it's a little higher - as much 80-85 gallons - but never less than 70. I've been told that some systems can use as much as 100 gallons or more per regen cycle, but we don't.<br />Originally Posted by Akpsdvan<br />Are the non adults Teenagers?<br />No - both girls, 7 and 9.<br />Originally Posted by Akpsdvan<br />Can the well handle the 75 gallon demand in the 1.5 hours that the system would be cleaning?<br />I don't think that's a problem - at least it hasn't been in the almost 6 years we're living here. We've even run out a considerable amount of non-conditioned water to deal with three separate rounds of major grass (re)seeding over the past 5+ years. I hate to say this, but the well, the pump and the diaphragm tank are all working like champs.. so far, anyway. {Sound of knuckles knocking on wood...}<br />Originally Posted by Akpsdvan<br />I am trying to understand what the challenge is with the water usage of the system cleaning?<br />The challenge is not so much the actual usage, but what goes down into the septic tank and ultimately into the drain field. My wife is a bit obsessive about this now, since our drain field failure was directly related to too much water and no place for it to go. She has been looking at everything we do with an eye towards reducing the volume of water that goes into the system. We both realize that this past 6-12 months has been sort of the perfect storm for max'ed out failure - too much rain, too much snow, too much water from the household, poor system design, improper and too deep installation. She has always been interested in keeping our water use down, but she's gotten even more interested in anything and everything that will reduce the gallons going down the drain since our drain field failed.<br />When we saw the WaterBoss at Home Depot, and the associate there talked about how short his regen cycle was, we looked at the literature and well, the as little as 14 gal. of water ... to regenerate caught her eye.<br />Originally Posted by Akpsdvan<br />The family of your size is most likely using 350 gallons per day, so an extra 75 every 5 days or so is a problem?<br />Not if it's really the only affordable and reliable solution to having conditioned water, no. In *my* opinion, that's true even if I've miscalculated and it's closer to 100 extra gallons every 14-16 days. (Note that we're currently regenerating about once every 14-16 days, not every 5.)<br />Everyone - including the children - have been trained to take so-called 'sailor showers', although their mother (my step-daughter) uses a bit more, since she has longer hair which requires a bit more washing, rinsing and conditioning. I think that our overall water usage is what I would consider slightly below normal. Other than their laundry, that is. Since the drain field failure, my step-daughter has been restricted to no more than one large load per day, which she has kept to. But prior to that, it wouldn't have been uncommon for her to run 4-5 large loads each weekend day, with the 2-3 loads during the week. OTOH, my wife I only run 3-4 loads every 10-12 days.<br /> <br />Originally Posted by Bob999<br />If your existing system is operating correctly and correctly programmed for your water conditions there is no way you will get significantly less water usage for regeneration from the WB or any other system.<br />That's actually what I was hoping a current WB owner would tell me.<br />As I've come to learn over the past few years, there are many factors that go into correctly programming a softener. I think that we've finally got it right here. But, my wife is anxious about just dumping so much waste water down into the septic system, that she believes that (to use her words), there just has to be a better solution. Well, we've investigated quite a few of them and I can tell you that there really isn't. At least not that are reliable and are affordable by the average homeowner, anyway.<br />The WaterBoss caught her eye with its claim of using significantly less water (and salt) per cycle. The fact that the manufacturer is pretty mum about what the high end usage could be and just how frequently their unit(s) actually run a regen cycle gave me pause. Another yellow flag was that they market a unit with a 160 pound salt tank that only uses 3 pounds of salt per cycle; I did the math... things don't quite add up right.<br />Anyway, coupled with the massive number of negative comments regarding the quality of manufacture and customer service that are floating around the Internet, I think that we'll be skipping the WaterBoss and staying with our Hydroflo/AutoTrol 255 valve/460i controller.<br /> <br />It can use less salt because of the up flow brine..<br />But yes there are any number of people that have not been real happy with the water boss or the mini Water Max from Hague.<br />I am basing my information and statements on what I have seen of the water boss and water max over the last 15 years that they have been in service.<br />There are some nice points about either of the units, but those points do come at a price that is not often talked about.<br />Like the cars today getting 35mpg.. is that city or highway? What kind of highway? L.A. or midwest where there are few trafic jams?<br />If you can put gray water in to what some call a dry pit, that is one way of not putting the softener in with the black water.<br />Softener is only one thing that may or may not lead to a septic system challenge... washing the food dishes and the pots and pans have a bigger challenge to the system.. bleach and other cleaning items that go down the drain.<br />What was the age of the septic? was it put in right the first time or did that contractor take some short cuts?<br /> <br />LazerFlash:<br />One option you might consider, if you have the space available, is a holding tank to store the discharge from the water softener. The tank needs to be at least 10% larger than the maximum discharge for one cycle of the softener, 2x is even better. The tank is emptied by means of a slow, controlled flow (trickle) over a period of 3 or 4 days, allowing the drain field to accept the large load over a long period of time, rather than the full discharge in a 1.5 hour period. I have used this type of system before for a customer whose sewer could not handle the sudden influx of water from a water softener. Although it will not reduce the total load on the septic system, it will spread that load over a much longer time frame.<br /><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/9Rvfp0xhvxk" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/9Rvfp0xhvxk" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br /><b>Tags</b>: opinions, waterboss, water, softeners, Originally Posted, have been, drain field, with water, Originally Posted Akpsdvan, Posted Akpsdvan, regen cycleAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05836530204685420918noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2695948067369633769.post-8812854159960829982014-03-12T20:45:00.005-07:002014-03-12T21:39:05.222-07:00long-drawer-glides-32<br><br />Hi all,<br />I am planning to put a big drawer underneath the last few steps of our basement stairs. Since the stairs is 36 wide, I like to get a pair of glides at least 32 long and I plan to install them underneath the drawer instead of on the sides. Shopped at HomeDepot and a couple local woodworking supply stores and found out that the longest they carry is 24. I wonder if anybody knows any place on the Internet I can get longer glides?<br />Thank you in advance,<br />wt<br /> <br />Have you looked at Rockler.com? - They have lots of goodies.<br />Dick<br /> <br />If you go to Woodworker's Hardware<br />http://www.wwhardware.com/<br />and look at part number KV8900 B32, you'll find the 32 slides your looking for. They are full extension ball bearing slides, and have a 500# capacity. They're not cheap, though. One set is $109.26. They sell them in lengths up to 60.<br />Part number B430E 32WH is also 32, and is a side/bottom mount that sels for $42.09 a set. But their white, if that makes a difference to you.<br /> <br />If the drawer can be constructed to accommodate casters, they might be better than guides, allow rolling around on the floor. I'd create pockets at the drawer corners to set the casters into, lose only a little space.<br /> <br />Whenever you put side mount drawer slides under a drawer, you can bet on it only holding 1/2 the weight that it claims to hold as a side mount.<br /> <br />Originally Posted by Boxarocks<br />If the drawer can be constructed to accommodate casters, they might be better than guides, allow rolling around on the floor. I'd create pockets at the drawer corners to set the casters into, lose only a little space.<br />Thank you all for the valuable information.<br />Putting casters sounds like a better idea to me than the glides I originally thought. However, it is still a little obscure how the finished drawer front is going to butt with the floor. I am guessing that I have to make the drawer front face 2 or 3 inches lower than the drawer bottom to cover the gap created by the casters and just leave a small gap above the carpet, maybe 1/8? Correct?<br />Also, I can't visualize how the drawer front bottom side butts with the baseboard molding on the walls beside the drawer.<br /> <br />I've done the caster / drawer thing, so can advise some caveats.<br />Into the bottom corners of your drawer box, build a small cutout, into which the casters will be installed.<br />A drawing here:<br />http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...awercorner.jpg<br />This allows a deeper drawer to be built.<br />Make the drawer box, then install a 2nd finished front, which can be sized adjusted to the opening. Adjust for carpet clearance now.<br />After fitting installing the finished front, attach a piece of baseboard to the drawer front.<br />Attach wood as lateral horizontal guides to the under stair framing, to keep the drawer rolling strait. Possibly liquid nails a 2X4 to concrete floor may work!<br />Don’t use swivel casters, as the drawer will wander.<br /><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/Z9vhi76-DuY" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/Z9vhi76-DuY" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br /><b>Tags</b>: long, drawer, glides, drawer front, accommodate casters, accommodate casters they, accommodate casters they might, accommodate casters they might better, allow rolling, allow rolling around, allow rolling around floor, allow rolling around floor create, around floor, around floor createAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05836530204685420918noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2695948067369633769.post-15420219930145548012014-03-12T20:45:00.004-07:002014-03-12T21:41:05.950-07:00Check For A Worn Strut Mount & Bearing Plate '04 Intrepid<br><br />I have an '04 Dodge Intrepid with 70,000 miles that makes clunking noises from the front end going over bumps and potholes. I checked the sway bar links and they are tight. I'm thinking the upper strut mount or bearing plate might be worn out. What is the best way to check without having to remove the strut?<br /> <br />Boy would I like to know the answer to that !!!<br />I have a car making squeaking noises that I'm certain are coming from the suspension at the rear.<br />This car has struts and springs separate from each other, so it could be the rubber parts at the ends of the springs or the bearing mounts at the ends of the struts. Some people have suggested that it is one and others that it is the other. It would be nice to know before taking the thing apart.<br />Anyone ????<br /> <br />atikovi...I'm at the same point with a different car. I'll see what anyone says about your issue, but I'm pretty sure thats my problem, as almost every other moving part has been replaced..lol<br />quickcurrent... separate struts and springs? or shocks and springs? Coil or leaf springs? Anyway, a quick check would be to spray a little silicone spray on one connection point at a time (like the rubber at one end of the spring) then drive over a bump you know makes it make noise. I did this with my truck, and it turned out the anti-squeek pads between the spring leafs were just worn out. Only cheap fix was to re-spray whenever I washed it.<br /> <br />After 50,000 miles, I replace all 4 struts. Factory equipment is not meant to go past that.<br /> <br />gunguy45--jack up the front corner of the noisy side, supporting the vehicle by the frame or unibody, allowing the wheel/tire assembly to hang free off the ground by a few inches. using a long bar (old piece of pipe, for example), place it under the tire and lift as if you are trying to raise the vehicle by the tire. watch the strut (or better yet, have a helper do the grunt work with the bar) or place your hand on the spring inside the wheel well and you will feel looseness or play as the suspension is lifted and released. there should be zero movement up and down.<br />you can also raise both side at the same time and then try turning the wheels by grasping the either tire and turning (don't forget to turn the ign key to the steering unlock position) left and right. if a strut bearing is failing, you may hear grinding/crucnching noise...or it may just be difficult to turn by hand. it should turn pretty easily this way...but you do have to have both side off the ground at the same time.<br />QC-- this should have been a new thread...suspension squeeking/squawking noises when going over bumps (esp speed bumps) is often the isolators that wrap around the stabalizer bar. the bar rotates in the rubber parts when the suspension cycles up and down...when the rubber is dry, it makes noise against the smooth metal bar, take the isolators loose and put some graphite based grease on them...or replace them if they are severly worn and the noise will go away. the stabalizer bar supports no weight so taking it loose doesn't require any special precations.<br /> <br />I tried the pry bar under the tire and everything is tight.<br />you can also raise both side at the same time and then try turning the wheels by grasping the either tire and turning<br />Then I tried the above and noticed some play as I move the tire back and forth. The play is transmitted back the tie rod to the rack on both sides. Although the steering feels good and tight I assume there should be no play. Would this indicate a worn rack? Could this cause the cluncking noise?<br /> <br />clunking noise=yes<br />worn rack=unlikely<br />it may take two people for this...the play you feel is abnormal...have a helper wiggle the tire back and forth while you feel the outer tie rod (that ball and socket looking thing that is out by the tire). if you don't feel the movement there, it's most likely the inner tie rod. it's located inside that plastic accordian boot thingy inboard of the outer tie rod. it screws onto the end of the rack and generally requires some special tools and a toe reset on the alignment rack after installation.<br /> <br />These Intrepids have a different style rack. The inner tie rods are external and meet up together at the center of the rack. I checked the service manual and it mentions inner tie rod bushings as a service item.<br /> <br />well it's a center take off rack and it still has inner tie rods. bushings and tie rods are two different things...the bushings provide isolation between the rack and the body of the car so as not to transmit noises to the passenger cabin.<br />just follow the steering linkage with your hand while someone else wiggles the wheel (not the steering wheel) and you'll find the play....good luck<br /> <br />Will do. I found this two piece tie rod bushing kit:<br />With this style kit does it mean I don't need to take the inner tie rods out of the car, just have to unbolt them from the rack?<br /><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/khZ16AOztT4" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/khZ16AOztT4" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br /><b>Tags</b>: check, worn, strut, mount, bearing, plate, intrepid, both side, inner rods, same time, also raise, also raise both, also raise both sideAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05836530204685420918noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2695948067369633769.post-13308840913037098522014-03-12T20:45:00.003-07:002014-03-12T21:40:54.808-07:00Gas Furnace Chimney Need A Cap (Combined Posts)<br><br />Mine doesn't have one. My other chimney (for the wood fireplace) does have one though.<br />Thanks,<br />Charlie<br /> <br />I realize the new furnace can be vented simply with PVC pipe. That is I realize a chimney is overkill, but I already have a chimney. It seems dumb to abandon a perfectly good chimney and chop another hole in my house for PVC just because the chimney is overkill. Am I missing something?<br />Charlie<br /> <br />I would put a cap on it. Keeps the elements and critters (looking for a warm place) out of it. Rain will not do the pipe any good so it's best to use a cover.Good luck.<br /> <br />Information only post.<br />Background info Tips installing a flue cap.<br />Customers who had furnaces problems and I made calls on, used the word chimney when they really meant flu pipe while placing the call to the office personal answering calls for service. Upon arrival at the home, sure enough the furnace has problems. Failure to vent fumes out of the flu pipe.<br />Primary reason I found out was by asking this question to them while still in the house or business. Have you or has anyone else recently installed or reinstalled cap on the exhaust pipe/vent? Sure enough one had been installed or reinstalled recently. Reinstalled applies when repairs are made to roofs or roofs where replaced.<br />Condition found was cap was forced down too far onto the flue pipe. Which blocked and or restricted the exhaust of the furnace. On newer furnaces with power vent fans, a restricted and or blocked flue, causes conditions which adversly effects normal furnace opertions.<br />Power exhaust vented furnaces will shut down quickly or never fire up at all, if flu is blocked. If flue is slightly restricted only, furnace likely to fire up but shuts down very soon after burners fire up. Or may not fire up at all. If vent pipe or exhaust flue is restricted enough, furnace likely to shut down very soon or not fire up at all.<br />Conditions can vary widely as it pertains to flue restrictions or blockages. As well as furnace operation, based upon the above conditions. A furnace problem is not always directly related to the furnace having a problem. In some instances the conditions are incorrect and it is the safety devices shuting a furnace down to prevent hazards or damages, etc.<br />On older model furnaces without power vent fans, a restricted and or blocked roof top flue pipe, the furnaces fumes from the burning process are spilled out of the downdrift divertor. Fumes will fill the furnaces inclosure area. Noticeable easily but excessive heat in the area immediately around the furnace, if in a closed closet or small area. Other signs not so easily noticeable to the untrained eye. All above conditions are unsafe and must be corrected as soon as possible.<br />When installing a flue cap, onto a flue pipe on the roof, never force the cap down onto the pipe fully. Inside the cap are small stop pins. Once the stop pins or tabs are in contact with the vent flue pipe, the cap is fully seated. Install screws per instructions and job done.<br /><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/_CqoRLR_sLI" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/_CqoRLR_sLI" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br /><b>Tags</b>: furnace, chimney, flue pipe, above conditions, blocked flue, chimney overkill, down onto, down very, down very soon, enough furnace, fans restricted, fans restricted blocked, furnace likelyAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05836530204685420918noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2695948067369633769.post-91334836528830283982014-03-12T20:45:00.002-07:002014-03-12T21:38:30.115-07:00craftsman-mower-starter-not-engaging<br><br />Hi,<br />I have a 5 year old Craftsman lawn tractor, 21hp, 42 deck. I had it out the other day, no problem mowing the lawn. The next time I tried to start it up, nothing happened. I went through the usual, has new battery, all levers where they need to be, etc. So far I have installed a new sparkplug, then a new solenoid, and a new starter. When I try to turn on the tractor now, the starter gear turns and makes a buzzing sound but never rises up to catch the flywheel gear. If I try to engage the two gears, then start the tractor, it seems the starter gear still just drops down and spin uselessly. I followed all the directions for placing the new starter, as ordered from Sears. New starter looks exactly like the old one. Gears don't appear to be stripped. If I use my hand or a screwdriver, the flywheel gear does turn without too much trouble. Any suggestions?<br /> <br />Are you certain the battery isn't connected backwards? This will cause the starter to turn backwards and do as you describe.<br /> <br />I'll bet you purchased a standard battery when Craftsman's require a reverse terminal battery...positive and negative posts are opposite normal batteries.<br /> <br />I'll have to check... It isn't the first time I put a battery in this mower, but I'll admit I wasn't paying a whole lot of attention when I put the battery in.<br /> <br />Aha! So... Once I got the battery connected the right way, everything else worked like it is supposed to. Thanks!<br /> <br />Good news and thanks for the update.<br /><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/avOHkn7Ak2Q" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/avOHkn7Ak2Q" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br /><b>Tags</b>: craftsman, mower, starter, battery connected, flywheel gear, starter gearAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05836530204685420918noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2695948067369633769.post-4706725661109439312014-03-12T20:45:00.001-07:002014-03-12T21:38:18.693-07:00beckett-oil-burner-nozzle-issues<br><br />Hi! Forum newbie here. I have a beckett oil burner that just had the nozzle replaced for the 3rd time and after running for a month and a half to two months, it shut itself off. The other two times, instead of shutting off, it would end up filling the house with smoke and I had to turn off the thing myself. This time it shut off by itself. First time they came, it got all the cleaning done which included a nozzle. A month later, same problem. They came back, added in a filter about 2 feet from the tank and had what appears to be a new line running from that new filter to the burner itself. And now it has quit and I am wondering why that nozzle would keep on getting clogged if that is what is happening. The serviceman had said that was the case the last two times. It seems a little puzzling to me seeing how the furnace was working fine the year before, and all of a sudden this repeating problem. I wonder if he is using the wrong nozzle or it may not be aligned properly. Any advice from someone who has been through this or knows about these burners(Beckett AFG) Thank-you!<br /> <br />When the filter was installed, did the servicer replace the screen in the fuel pump? If your tank has sludge in it the pump screen was not replaced, the screen is probably full of sludge which is washing off plugging the nozzle.<br />Was a combustion analysis performed when the furnace was cleaned if so, what were the results?<br />If you can provide the make model of the furnace, I can probably tell you the correct nozzle for that heater.<br /> <br />I am not sure if they changed the screen or if an analysis was performed. Is the screen something that can be replaced without a whole lot of trouble? As for the make and model, it is a Liberty by Slant-Fin, and the Model number is L-30-P. About the filter, how often should that be replaced? Also what would be the normal life expectantcy of a nozzle?<br />(I really appreciate the reply! I stumbled onto this site from google and after reading various posts and posting myself, its really awesome that there are experts that take the time to answer the do-it-yourselfer's questions!)<br /> <br />According to Beckett's OEM spec book, the nozzle which should be used in that boiler is a 1.00 gph, 80є W, Delavan nozzle at 100# of fuel pump pressure. BTW, there is also supposed to be a solenoid valve on the pump discharge with a delay built in.<br />The pump screen (presuming a Suntec pump) is easily removed by taking out the four machine screws on the pump cover. You will need either a 5/16 wrench or a 5/32 allen depending upon the age of the pump. The screen gasket (usually packaged together) are readilly available online or at nearly any HVAC supply house.<br />Nozzle, filter, pump screen should be replaced with each annual boiler cleaning.<br />A tip-off as to if a combustion test was performed or not is to look for a hole (aprox. 1/4-3/8 in diameter) in the exhaust pipe between the boiler the barometric damper. NOTE: This hole may, should be, plugged or otherwise sealed with a metal plug, bolt, furnace cement, high temp silicone, or at least foil tape. If there is no such hole, there has never been a combustion analysis performed unless the pipe has been replaced.<br /> <br />Surprisingly they went to all the trouble to add a filter at the tank with a new fuel line. It would have been cheaper to clean the existing fuel filter and screen, if a Suntec as Grady said. I would also go and buy a quart of the sludge removal from Home depot the next time you get oil. You might have gotten a bad batch of oil. That really can screw up your filter, screen, nozzle, the works.<br />The tech should have bled your pump until all the foamy fuel cleared up. Air in the fuel can really mess with the nozzle pressure. He should have tested the pump pressure and combustion analysis. If the electrodes are pretty worn down, after years of use, you might need a new pair. It sounds like your losing fuel due to sludge or lack of proper setup. It takes some time to clean the system like replacing the fuel filter each month after a dose of the sludge removal.<br />Your tech tried to bypass the slow process of sludge removal with a new filter at the tank and fuel line. Most recently I added sludge removel and replaced my filter twice after I had issues with foamy fuel. It finally cleared up after my last filter swap and screen cleaning.<br />How many oil filters do you now have inline and do you have a one line or two line system?<br /> <br />Hey thanks for the suggestion on the sludge remover, I think I will probably pick some up so I'll have for the next fillup. Since it's been warming up here, I haven't needed to have the furnace running, but I do want to get all cleanup done like the nozzle, screen and filter like Grady suggested. Hopefully this weekend I will get a chance to check it all out, I am curious about the condition of the electrodes.<br />It appears that I still have one in-line filter, looks like new line from the filter to the burner. It is a one line system. Thanks for the insight hexonx!<br /> <br />I find it hard to believe a 1.00 nozzle would have fouled three times in such a short period. I suspect that the burner is either set up wrong, or the transformer is acting up.<br /> <br />I too have this boiler. A year after it was installed the oil company that installed it did an annual service. About one month after it was serviced the nozzle clogged. I do not know what nozzle size had been used. The oil company installed another nozzle (again I do not know what size) and attempted to charge me for that service call. When I protested the charge they rescinded it but tried to sell me on purchasing a new oil tank.<br />I changed oil companies instead and had not had another problem for years.<br />This summer the boiler quit again. I want to service it myself but have already run into a problem. When I tried to shut off the oil to replace the filter, the valve handle screwed off entirely. When I attempted to open the filter housing, the oil kept flowing out until my catch pan nearly overfilled. I quickly reversed my attempt to remove the cap of the filter housing. I have watched the servicemen replace that filter many times. My pan should not have filled more than halfway. Please advise me on what I may have done wrong.<br />Thank you,<br />Gerald Reiser<br /> <br />Originally Posted by WappRecycler<br />When I attempted to open the filter housing, the oil kept flowing out until my catch pan nearly overfilled. I quickly reversed my attempt to remove the cap of the filter housing. I have watched the servicemen replace that filter many times. My pan should not have filled more than halfway. Please advise me on what I may have done wrong.<br />The wheel on Firomatic shutoff valves will unscrew completely if you go too far. The spring loaded valves won't always close on their own when you unscrew the wheel. Sometimes you have to give them a gentle tap with the palm of your hand to make sure the valve springs into the closed position.<br />When we have a fuel customer with an oil related problem (not combustion related) we treat the oil with FuelRight, install a General 2A-700A or Mitco 265 primary filter with .50 Micron element and install a secondary .10 Micron spin-on filter. (Both at the tank) After that we eliminate downstream problems by either flushing or replacing the fuel line, replacing the pump strainer, flushing nozzle assembly and the high pressure line. We have very few return calls for oil related problems.<br /><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/tmS3I14IBPU" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/tmS3I14IBPU" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br /><b>Tags</b>: beckett, burner, nozzle, issues, filter housing, pump screen, should have, analysis performed, combustion analysis, fuel lineAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05836530204685420918noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2695948067369633769.post-18876203039436104262014-03-12T20:45:00.000-07:002014-03-12T21:40:02.741-07:00$3200 For Gutters<br><br />I just bought a pretty modest-size house with no more than 100 feet of straight roof line. The house is currently without gutters. Water pours off the roof at the front door and pools in the driveway. One of my neighbors recently had a leaf guard system installed on his house, which is nearly the same size. The price was a grand $3200. This is my first house, and so I have no experience with gutter prices, but this just seems wayyyyy too high to me. I'm about to start getting estimates and would like to be informed. What can I expect to pay for standard aluminum?<br /> <br />For starters, get atleast four or five estimates. As you have noticed, there are some leeches out there.<br />As info, just talked to my neighbor last night. He got a $350 estimate for about 90 feet of one piece(no seams) aluminum gutters for his addition.<br />good luck,<br />fred<br /> <br />Just so you know, do not go by just the price. Also do not compare what your neighbor had compared to what you may have. It will just not work. There are several different types of gutter systems. Within these different systems you also have continous gutters, seamless gutters, and seamed gutters. You also have light steel, heavy steel, and vinyl. You also have several different widths and heights. So as you can see, there are many different things that can effect the price. For instance, I just finished a job, and was about to install heavy steel white gutters and the price was going to be about $750. The homeowner decided they wanted steel painted gutters. These are special order. They ordered them, and the gutters alone came to over $1000. So you can see how different things can be.<br />When you get your estimates, write down what you want, give each bidder the same info. Also don't forget, you fascia or at least some of it may have to replaced also. This will be a little more. Welcome to the wonderful world of Home Ownership.<br /> <br />Jack , you mentioned several types of gutters and as always price is a concern, however i wouldnt want to go the cheapest either and have to replace them more often down the line.......so<br />in your opinion: If I am about to get a new roof and badly needed ventilation at the gutter line (using one of the certainteed gutter vent products) as well as a new ridge vent, all in all spending about 8,000 - 9,000 for a 30 yry warranty.<br />Which gutters should I choose for long lasting.<br />The reason I ask is becuase it might be worth spending a little extra now and not have any problems later.<br />SO which type of gutter is the best overall?<br />thanks<br /> <br />I am with you - 3200. seems way way too much for gutters!<br />I was told 2500. for my house and garage (total 200 ft) and I freaked out.<br />so , I hope to hear back from jack regarding my questions above.<br /> <br />Seamless aluminum gutters are about $2 a foot here.<br /> <br />is that installed?<br /> <br />strong enough to rest a ladder on them without crushing them for when I need to clean out the gutters etc.?<br /> <br />yes.<br /> <br />Here again it is your choice. Each is good. Each will last for quite awhile. It it were me, I would buy steel gutters, 16' length, and install these. Have your roofer do it. They do them all the time.<br />They have to put the gutter metal on anyway. These gutters will cost about $160 a foot installed. Now before you get all excited, remember, I said that there are many different things that can effect the price. Fascia, type of hangers, type of fascia material,<br />angle of fascia, type of roof, and etc, etc. When I do gutters on a house and someone asks me how much, I tell them I don't have any idea, until I am done. Too many variables. However, if your putting on a $8000 roof, $1000 for gutters is pretty reasonable.<br />I am not a seamless gutter fan. Too much built in profit. I have seen to many people taken advantage of. But this is just my opinion.<br /> <br />I have 200 feet total including my garage - that would be 32,000.00 for gutters.<br />Must be a typo.<br />No way anyone would pay 160.00 per foot.<br />Please tell me you meant 16.00<br /> <br />Gutters here run about $3.00 to $6.00 a foot for the aluminum 5 and 6. Dont forget when we figure the cost of gutters per ft you say a foot for a end, a foot for a miter, a foot for an L, a foot for a tube outlet and dont forget the down spouts per foot. If you dont have a foot on the ladderat the top when you want to clean them. Just make sure you put the ladder on the gutter where there is a spike and ferrule and this is right in the middle of the ladder. Gutters of copper and SS would cost the most when we put them up. ED<br /> <br />Yes, a typo. It is $1.60 per ft. And you use Ed's process for figuring exactly what a foot is. I have roughly figured out a rough estimate for 200 ft of gutter using a square of 50' on each side, and rule of thumb comes out about $400 for materials. Again it depends on all of the things I mentioned above. Every house is different.<br /><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/XcIYPWjIpn8" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/XcIYPWjIpn8" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br /><b>Tags</b>: 3200, gutters, about foot, also have, different things, aluminum gutters, different things that, different things that effect, different things that effect price, effect priceAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05836530204685420918noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2695948067369633769.post-82293429925435807872014-03-11T20:31:00.011-07:002014-03-11T21:15:26.746-07:00why-does-my-singlehandle-faucet-handle-droop<p>Solve a drooping faucet handle with a quick fix.</p><br /><p>A kitchen faucet is a vital accessory. It helps clean dishes, make pasta and serves up water anytime you need a drink. However, there are many problems that crop up, especially after many months of use. One of those problems is the drooping handle. This occurs on single-handle faucets. It is a 10-minute fix to correct this problem which is aggravating more than anything else.</p><br /><p><h2>Single-Handle Faucet Design</h2></p><br /><p>Single-handle faucets use a ball valve design. A ball-shaped piece actually sits inside of the faucet head. There are two valves inside the ball. When turned to one side, the ball rotates, opening one of these valves. The water then flows through the faucet. Hot and cold water is controlled by these two valves. The handle droops because this valve is slowly falling. Since it is round, there is not enough friction to keep it in place.</p><br /><p><h2>Grease on Ball Valve</h2></p><br /><p>One reason the ball valve is slipping is due to excess lubrication on the inside of the valve itself. Silicone plumber's grease is usually the culprit. This is applied during installations. Too much lubrication causes the ball valve to slip and fall, which means the handle falls right along with it. Take the faucet handle off, remove the ball valve and clean it thoroughly to solve this problem.</p><br /><p><h2>Grease on Cartridge or Handle</h2></p><br /><p>The grease may also be on the ball valve's stem or cartridge stem (on cartridge-style single-handle faucets). In either case, this is the part the handle attaches to. It is a metal or plastic rod that sticks up from the faucet head. If grease works its way down into this part, it will start to slip and the handle will fall. Clean off this part with a rag or paper towel and reinstall the part to solve this problem.</p><br /><p><h2>Loose Handle Screws</h2></p><br /><p>Another problem is loose handle screws. The handle screws attach the handle to the ball valve stem. If these are loose, the handle will droop down. A good way to tell if this is the problem, and not grease on the ball valve or rod, is to wiggle the handle. If you hear it clinking against the ball valve rod, the screws are probably loose. It's very easy to fix this problem. Just tighten the screw with a screwdriver or Allen wrench.</p><br /><p><h2>General Suggestions</h2></p><br /><p>Always keep the faucet clean and free from water leaks. Hard water sediments corrode the parts in the faucet like the screws. This leads to premature handle droop. Use new parts whenever possible. Replace the screws, cartridge and ball valve if your handle continues to droop. Always use plumber's grease, never lubricants or petroleum greases, on your faucet. Plumber's grease is silicone-based, so it is better suited for wet environments.</p><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/A7e2bIfP8Us" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/A7e2bIfP8Us" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05836530204685420918noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2695948067369633769.post-88950548378875743772014-03-11T20:31:00.010-07:002014-03-11T21:15:15.585-07:00tips-for-a-water-pick<p>A water pick for safe, effective oral hygiene.</p><br /><p>A water pick is used for oral irrigation or spraying water into the mouth and onto the teeth. It helps flush out and remove food particles trapped between your teeth, and provides a gentler approach to teeth cleaning in comparison to brushing and flossing, which can cause gum inflammation and bleeding. If you're thinking of using a water pick, there are several tips that can help you achieve optimal results.</p><br /><p><h2>Part Of A Routine</h2></p><br /><p>While using a water pick is gentler than brushing and flossing, it's also not as effective at removing plaque and preventing gingivitis, cavities and other dental issues, according to Mayo Clinic-you shouldn't replace your toothbrush and dental floss with a water pick, as it is not a viable substitute on its own. Instead, incorporate the water pick as a supplement to your daily dental care routine.</p><br /><p><h2>Water Pressure</h2></p><br /><p>Most water picks have switches that allow you to select between different strengths or pressures of water. According to Waterpik.com if you're using a water pick for the first time it's a good idea to begin on the lowest or base setting. As your gums and teeth get used to the pressure, you can gradually increase it. This will help prevent any initial discomfort.</p><br /><p><h2>Mouth Orientation</h2></p><br /><p>Before you begin using your water pick, you'll want to position your head over the sink, so that you can spit or drain out excess water from your mouth. Once you start spraying, keep your lips as close to sealed as possible to prevent water from splashing out of your mouth uncontrollably, and to ensure the pick targets your teeth and gums. Leave a small gap so you can constantly drain out the used water-you don’t want to swallow the plaque, bacteria and other gunk that the pick loosens.</p><br /><p><h2>Pick Orientation and Procedure</h2></p><br /><p>Aim the tip of the water pick so that it's just above and perpendicular to the gum-line. This will ensure the water reaches all of the teeth’s gaps. A rule of thumb is to begin by spraying the back teeth first, and then follow the gum-line around to the other side. This method will help prevent you from skipping teeth and gaps.</p><br /><p><h2>For Braces</h2></p><br /><p>If you wear braces or some other type of orthodontic device, using a water pick can help remove bits of food that get stuck in those hard-to-reach places between wires and brackets. Try getting a specialized orthodontic tip attachment for your pick, which has a tapered end for better penetrating small spaces.</p><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/pa0RoeoiEaE" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/pa0RoeoiEaE" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05836530204685420918noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2695948067369633769.post-27461948310373511112014-03-11T20:31:00.009-07:002014-03-11T21:17:19.369-07:00Organization Ideas For A Small Walkin Closet<p>Effective organization is essential for functional closet use.</p><br /><p>No matter how small, a walk-in closet provides valuable storage space for clothes and shoes that might otherwise clutter a room. Effective storage and organization strategies are essential for creating the most functional and well-executed walk-in closet design. By combining strategies for using the space you have efficiently, as well as introducing additional means of in-closet organization, you can utilize your small walk-in closet to its fullest potential.</p><br /><p><h2>Shelves and Bins</h2></p><br /><p>Though the idea of building inside a small closet seems counter intuitive to space efficiency, a few simple shelves solve several clutter problems and free up space in the closet that is more efficiently utilized. Purchase several individual wall shelves; measure and cut them to size so that they fit snugly within the space between the back of the closet and the edge of the closet door trim. Line both closet side walls with several shelves spaced at least 12 inches apart to allow for maximum storage. Don't forget the space above the hanging rack; if there is enough room, lay one long shelf along the top for folded items. Along the back wall of the closet, consider stackable bins that pull out like drawers; purchasing stackable units allows you to custom-make a wall unit to fit inside your closet. Use the bins for small objects like socks, belts or ties that usually create clutter.</p><br /><p><h2>Door Storage</h2></p><br /><p>Walk-in closets with traditional closet doors are well-suited for hanging door storage pieces that help keep items organized; accordion-style or sliding doors are not as effective. Purchase a shoe rack designed to hook over a door; use a label maker to print several sticker labels for each small pocket on the rack. Use the pockets not only for shoes, but also for belts, small purses or dress socks. If you don't want an entire rack unit, simply purchase several individual hooks that screw or tape to the back of the door; keep winter jackets, bathrobes or heavy sweaters that typically take up a lot of space on the door instead of with the other clothes.</p><br /><p><h2>Organizational Strategies</h2></p><br /><p>Arrange the clothes in the closet in a way that suits your personal dressing needs. For example, hang any work clothes that require ironing rather than folding them. Keep T-shirts, jeans or pajamas folded and stacked on the side wall shelves. One option for organizing the closet rack is to arrange clothes by types; for example, all blouses are grouped together, followed by all trousers, skirts, dresses and jackets. Another option is to group items by style; organize all casual wear at one end of the rack, followed by work attire and formal or evening wear. Create a closet that helps coordinate outfits by organizing items by color; begin with white and black, and proceed down the rack according to the colors in the visible light spectrum.</p><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/XgBQ0syyB84" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/XgBQ0syyB84" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05836530204685420918noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2695948067369633769.post-66587279028094158482014-03-11T20:31:00.008-07:002014-03-11T21:17:08.324-07:00Troubleshoot A Transmission Shift Solenoid & Gear Shift Lever Indicator<p>The gear shift operates the shift indicator and transmission solenoid.</p><br /><p>The gear shift lever indicators tell you what gear you have an automatic transmission in on your vehicle. The shift solenoid tells the transmission when to shift gears and what gear to shift into. Newer model automatic transmissions have electronic shift solenoids that are activated and change gears based on the speed the vehicle is traveling. Troubleshooting either one of these transmission components is relatively easy if you know a little about automobile mechanics. With the right tools, you can determine whether the transmission shift solenoid is having a problem. Gear shift indicator problems can be determined simply by moving the gears into their designated position.</p><br /><p><h2>Instructions</h2></p><br /><p><h2>Transmission Shift Solenoid</h2></p><br /><p>1. Raise each corner of the vehicle up with the car jack and place jack stands under the frame. Make sure the car is raised high enough so you can work under the car freely.</p><br /><p>2. Slide the drain pan under the transmission fluid drain plug. Remove the drain plug with a ratchet and socket, and let all the fluid drain out of the transmission. Remove the transmission pan bolts with a ratchet and socket. Pull the pan away from the bottom of the transmission, revealing the transmission shift solenoid.</p><br /><p>3. Wipe off the shift solenoid with a shop towel. Disconnect one of the two plugs that attaches to the shift solenoid. Turn the knob on the volt meter to the ohms setting, so resistance can be measured. Set the volt meter on 200.</p><br /><p>4. Take the black lead of the volt meter and touch the negative battery terminal wire. Take the red lead of volt meter and slide the tip into the terminal plug you just disconnected from the shift solenoid. Look at the reading you get on the digital display of your volt meter. Determine if the reading is between 12 and 25. Readings below 12 or above 25 tell you that the shift solenoid is not working. Reattach the plug to the shift solenoid and pull the second plug attached to the solenoid. Perform the same procedures on this plug wire. Replace the transmission shift solenoid after determining it is bad.</p><br /><p><h2>Gear Shift Indicator</h2></p><br /><p>5. Move the gear shift into the desired gear. Look at the gear labels and the arrow, or other indicator, to see if the gear shift indicator lines up with the selected gear.</p><br /><p>6. Move the gear lever to another gear and look to see if the indicator lines up with the selected gear. Misalignment of the arrow will tell you if there is a problem. Moving the gear shift to neutral but having the indicator show the transmission is in drive tells you the gear shift indicator is not working properly.</p><br /><p>7. Try each gear position to determine how much misalignment is in the indicator. Slide under the car and check for a loose gear shift cable. Check all the gear shift cable connections to ensure they are all tight and are not missing. Tighten any loose gear shift cable clamps or bolts. Replace the gear shift cable if you find that this is causing the misalignment with the gear shift indicator.</p><br /><p><h2>Tips Warnings</h2></p><br /><p>The lead tips on the volt meter and the terminal plugs on the transmission shift solenoid must be clean or you will get a false reading.</p><br /><p>Other possible problems with the gear shift indicator are a misaligned gear shift linkage, loose linkage or damaged linkage. Replacement of the gear shift linkage must be done by a qualified automotive technician to ensure the linkage is installed and aligned properly.</p><br /><p>Park the vehicle on a flat surface before raising the automobile and placing jack stands under each corner.</p><br /><p>Ensure that the jack stands will hold the weight of the vehicle and that the automobile is resting securely on the stands before you crawl underneath the car.</p><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/7MK_6sCMlS0" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/7MK_6sCMlS0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05836530204685420918noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2695948067369633769.post-51248646514977023582014-03-11T20:31:00.007-07:002014-03-11T21:16:57.212-07:00Replace A Grohe Ladylux Hose<p>The Grohe Ladylux faucet has a handy, movable sprayer head attached to the faucet body by a hose. This hose carries the water from the body of the faucet to the sprayer after the water mixes in the cartridge. Therefore, taking the hose out and replacing it does not involve a complete disassembly of the faucet. You will need to take the spout off in order to remove the hose, however. This task will take about a half hour for an experienced repairman.</p><br /><p><h2>Instructions</h2></p><br /><p>1. Turn the water off under the sink to prevent an accident during this repair. Close both water valves on the water lines in the sink cabinet.</p><br /><p>2. Pull the sprayer head out of the spout mouth and find the connector on the base of the sprayer head. Turn the connector counterclockwise to unscrew it and remove the sprayer head. Use a wrench to loosen the connector if you have to. Place this part aside for now.</p><br /><p>3. Disconnect the spout from the faucet spout base. The part snaps into the base, so carefully turn and pop the spout out of the base with your hands. Grasp the spout and base with a towel for a better grip.</p><br /><p>4. Disconnect the hose from the spout base connection by unsnapping the connector from the spout base. Take the hose out of the base.</p><br /><p>5. Slide the new hose through the spout. Connect the new hose to the faucet base by snapping the connector into the faucet body. Push the spout back into the base of the faucet and snap it into the base. Screw the sprayer head back into the top of the new hose by turning it clockwise until tightened.</p>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05836530204685420918noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2695948067369633769.post-91165532058616626722014-03-11T20:31:00.006-07:002014-03-11T21:16:45.430-07:00Rebuild An American Standard Toilet<p>Rebuilding your American Standard toilet can save you hundreds of dollars.</p><br /><p>After repairing your American Standard toilet several times without success, it's time to rebuild. Replacing all the internal parts in your toilet is the only way to be certain you will not have any problems. Rebuilding you're American Standard toilet is not as hard as you might think. The whole job should only take an hour or two.</p><br /><p><h2>Instructions</h2></p><br /><p>1. Close the toilet's water supply valve under the left side of the tank. Rotate the valve's handle clockwise until it stops. Remove the tank lid and set it aside on a soft surface.</p><br /><p>2. Flush the toilet and continue to hold the handle down to remove as much water as possible. Soak up the rest of the water in the toilet tank with a hand towel.</p><br /><p>3. Disconnect the water supply line from the water fill valve with a pair of pliers. Place the hand towel under the supply line to catch what water is left in the supply line and fill valve.</p><br /><p>4. Unscrew the fill valve's lock nut under the tank and lift the fill valve out of the tank. Disconnect the small refill tube from the top of the flush valve as you remove the fill valve.</p><br /><p>5. Unscrew the tank-to-bowl bolt locknuts from under the toilet tank with a small adjustable wrench. You may need to hold the top of the bolts with a flat tip screwdriver from inside the tank.</p><br /><p>6. Lay the American Standard toilet tank down on top of the toilet seat. You might want to place an old bath towel down on top of the toilet seat first; this will help keep the seat clean and prevent damage.</p><br /><p>7. Peel off the black foam rubber tank-to-bowl gasket from the flush valve on the bottom of the tank. The old black rubber material will get everywhere, wear gloves and have a trash bag handy to deposit the gasket.</p><br /><p>8. Unscrew the fill valve's large lock-nut from the bottom of the toilet tank. Turn the nut counterclockwise to remove. You will need a large pipe pair of Channel lock pliers or a large pipe wrench. Hold the flush valve with one hand from inside the tank to prevent it from turning.</p><br /><p>9. Clean the inside of the toilet tank around the fill valve and flush valve openings with an old rag.</p><br /><p>10. Install a flush valve and fill valve according to the manufacturer's instructions. Reinstall the tank with new tank-to-bowl bolts and new tank-to-bowl gasket. Connect the water supply line and turn the water back on. Set the water level in the tank a half inch below the top of the new flush valve refill tube. Flush the toilet and adjust the water fill valve if necessary.</p><br /><p><h2>Tips Warnings</h2></p><br /><p>If you cannot get the nuts off the tank bolts, you may need to use a hacksaw blade and just cut them in between the tank and the bowl.</p><br /><p>You can break the toilet easily, so use caution when moving parts.</p><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/x_ePvpfAkAc" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/x_ePvpfAkAc" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05836530204685420918noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2695948067369633769.post-33556723182908003412014-03-11T20:31:00.005-07:002014-03-11T21:16:34.053-07:00Make A Schwarzwalder Kirschtorte<p>Schwarzwalder Kirschtorte</p><br /><p>Schwarzwalder Kirschtorte, or Black Forest Cherry Cake, is a classic European dessert. It originated in Germany, but has become a favorite all over the world. There are many elaborate recipes, but this one is quick to assemble and results in a delicious and showy dessert.Old fashioned recipes always include a healthy portion of cherry brandy, in the filling, in the whipped cream and for moistening the cake. This really adds to the flavor, but it isn't absolutely necessary if you are serving a younger crowd.</p><br /><p><h2>Instructions</h2></p><br /><p><h2>Make a Schwarzwalder Kirschtorte</h2></p><br /><p>1. Mix cake mix and bake in two 9-inch layer pans. Turn onto racks and allow to cool.</p><br /><p>2. Drain cherries, saving syrup. Mix 1/4-cup of syrup with 1/4-cup cherry brandy or just use 1/2-cup cherry syrup.</p><br /><p>3. Combine syrup mixture with cherries, white sugar and cornstarch in saucepan. Cook over low heat until mixture boils and thickens, stirring constantly. Remove from heat and stir in vanilla. Cool before using.</p><br /><p>4. Combine whipping cream and confectioners sugar in chilled bowl. Add 2-tbsp cherry brandy, if desired. Beat at high speed to stiff peaks.</p><br /><p>5. Combine 1/4-cup cherry syrup with 1/4-cup cherry brandy or just use 1/2 cup cherry syrup. Add 1/4-tsp almond extract.</p><br /><p>6. Split each cake layer in half horizontally. Set bottom layer on cake plate. Use pastry brush to moisten layer with 1/3 of almond flavored cherry syrup. Frost with one cup whipped cream. Spread with 3/4-cup cherry filling. Top with 2nd cake layer and repeat syrup, cream and filling. Top with 3rd layer and repeat. Crumble 4th cake layer into fine crumbs and reserve.</p><br /><p>7. Frost sides of cake with whipped cream. Use rest of whipped cream and cherry filling to decorate, then place balance of filling in circle at the center top of the cake. Decorate sides of cake with thick coating of crumbled cake crumbs.</p><br /><p><h2>Tips Warnings</h2></p><br /><p>If you aren't using brandy, a bit of almond extract in the cherry filling and the whipped cream will perk up the flavor.</p><br /><p>You should probably omit brandy if serving to children.</p><br /><p>Adults should be informed about the brandy, also.</p><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/WsM46bvlBpY" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/WsM46bvlBpY" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05836530204685420918noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2695948067369633769.post-59347182461531252432014-03-11T20:31:00.004-07:002014-03-11T21:16:23.006-07:00Fix One Panel Of A Vinyl Fence<p>A vinyl fence is low maintenance since it doesn't rust as can happen with a fence made of steel. The vinyl is vulnerable to damage, however, and can be torn or scratched from the elements or vandalism. You can fix a panel of vinyl fence that has been damaged by replacing the vinyl. The needed supplies can be purchased from a hardware store. You'll also need a few common tools found around the house.</p><br /><p><h2>Instructions</h2></p><br /><p>1. Cut out the panel on the vinyl fence that is damaged with the blade of a utility knife, using a straight edge. Place the vinyl sheet on a work surface. Place the cut vinyl panel on the vinyl sheet. Trace an outline around the cut vinyl panel on the vinyl sheet with a grease pencil. Dispose of the cut vinyl.</p><br /><p>2. Measure 2 inches out from the outline on all sides. Draw an outline around the existing outline with the grease pencil using this measurement. Cut out the outline just drawn with the blade of a utility knife and a straight edge. Cut another panel of vinyl in the same manner as the one just made.</p><br /><p>3. Pour the vinyl repair compound into a plastic bowl, add water and mix it with a wooden stir stick as per the instructions that are included. Apply the compound to the edge of a plastic spatula. Run the edge of the spatula against the sides, top and bottom of one side of one of the vinyl panels. Place the vinyl panel against the cut area of the fence. Press the sides of the vinyl panel against the fence.</p><br /><p>4. Plug a heat gun's power cord into an extension cord and the plug from the extension cord into a wall outlet on the side of the house for power. Turn the heat gun on. Apply the hot air from the heat gun against the vinyl pattern to adhere the compound that is on the vinyl panel to the vinyl of the fence. Continue applying heat from the heat gun as per the instructions provided with the compound. Remove the heat gun and let the vinyl cool for the amount of time that is specified in the instructions.</p><br /><p>5. Apply compound to the edge of the spatula. Run the edge of the spatula against the sides, top and bottom of one side of the other vinyl panel. Apply compound to the entire surface of the vinyl panel.</p><br /><p>6. Place the side of the vinyl panel that has the compound on it against the vinyl panel from the other side of the fence. Apply heat from the heat gun for the amount of time specified in the instructions. Let the vinyl panel cool off for the amount of time specified in the instructions while you unplug the extension cord from the heat gun and from the AC outlet.</p><br /><p>7. Spray the panels on both sides of the vinyl fence with vinyl cleaner. Wipe both sides with a soft cloth. Dry both sides with a dry soft cloth. Clean the rest of the fence in the same manner.</p><br /><p><h2>Tips Warnings</h2></p><br /><p>The vinyl purchased should be the same color and thickness as the original vinyl.</p><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/b1Ei0bIF0DE" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/b1Ei0bIF0DE" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05836530204685420918noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2695948067369633769.post-61254266832578205972014-03-11T20:31:00.003-07:002014-03-11T21:16:11.943-07:00Clean Hunter Douglas Silhouettes<p>Your Hunter Douglas Silhouette window shades represent a sizable investment, and with proper care they will last for years to come. These designer shades are built to function like shutters with a sheer fabric on either side to provide UV protection even when the shutters are open. Because of the delicate nature of the sheer fabric covering the vanes that make up the interior shutter portion, these window coverings require special care to keep them looking and functioning their best. Follow the steps below to make the most of this beautiful investment in your home.</p><br /><p><h2>Instructions</h2></p><br /><p>1. Lightly dust your Hunter Douglas Silhouette window coverings once a week using a soft cloth or a disposable anti-static dusting cloth.</p><br /><p>2. Blow off your window coverings with your hair dryer set on the Cool setting every three months. Start at the top and work your way down to the bottom.</p><br /><p>3. Gently vacuum your Silhouette window coverings every six months with the brush attachment of your vacuum cleaner. Work from the top to the bottom using vertical strokes.</p><br /><p>4. If you feel that your Hunter Douglas Silhouette window coverings need to be deep cleaned, Hunter Douglas recommends having them professionally cleaned using an injection/extraction cleaning system. Call Hunter Douglas Customer Service at (800) 501-8364 and they will refer you to a professional injection/extraction cleaning service in your area. The cleaning is done in your own home and is extremely effective.</p><br /><p><h2>Tips Warnings</h2></p><br /><p>If you keep up with the regular dusting, blowing and vacuuming of your shades, you might not ever need to have them professionally cleaned.</p><br /><p>When dusting your window coverings, don't use any dusting sprays or cleaning solutions. They can cause discoloration and damage.</p><br /><p>Don't attempt to spot clean your Hunter Douglas Silhouette window coverings. This can lead to permanent discoloration and stains.</p><br /><p>Don't steam your Hunter Douglas Silhouette window coverings.</p><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/5ezYg_vd2P8" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/5ezYg_vd2P8" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05836530204685420918noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2695948067369633769.post-9916379879162572202014-03-11T20:31:00.002-07:002014-03-11T21:16:00.916-07:00Apply Joint Compound To Smooth Out Walls<p>Apply Joint Compound to Smooth Out Walls</p><br /><p>Joint compound is a type of plaster that's used to finish off the seams between sheets of drywall during construction. Applied correctly, it renders the seams between individual sheets invisible once painted. Joints must be covered in drywall tape in order to give the joint compound something to adhere to so that the compound can be applied smoothly.</p><br /><p><h2>Instructions</h2></p><br /><p>1. Run your hand along the surface to feel for raised screw heads left sticking out from the wall during construction. Sink any protruding screw heads with a screw gun so that the heads are flush with the surface of the wall.</p><br /><p>2. Press drywall tape over each seam between sheets of drywall, ripping off any excess tape at the top and bottom of each seam.</p><br /><p>3. Spread joint compound over the seams, using a drywall knife to completely cover the tape. Make the line of joint compound 4 inches wide, or 2 inches wide on either side of the seam, and completely flat. Spread a dab of joint compound flat over each screw hole as well.</p><br /><p>4. Wait at least six hours, or overnight, for the joint compound to dry. Run the long edge of the drywall knife over the dried compound to knock off any lumps.</p><br /><p>5. Spread a second coat of joint compound on top of the first in a seam 6 inches wide, so it completely covers the first seam. Let the compound dry for at least six hours. Scrape the area with your drywall knife again to remove any additional lumps.</p><br /><p>6. Spread on a third and final coat of joint compound in a seam 8 inches wide -- an inch wider on either side of the seam than the previous application. Let it dry at least six hours or overnight.</p><br /><p>7. Sand the seams very lightly with a sanding pad to make them flat and even. Use a broom to brush dust off the wall's surface.</p><br /><p><h2>Tips Warnings</h2></p><br /><p>Paper drywall tape is available, but is more complicated to use than mesh-style tape, which has adhesive on it. Paper tape needs a base of joint compound to adhere to, adding an additional step to this process.</p><br /><p>Wear a particle mask when sanding.</p><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/JB-2RX94FEg" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/JB-2RX94FEg" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05836530204685420918noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2695948067369633769.post-86507672046763897302014-03-11T20:31:00.001-07:002014-03-11T21:15:49.862-07:00Do Breast Calcifications Mean Cancer<p>The majority of the time, breast calcifications do not mean cancer. The California Pacific Medical Center says the majority of calcifications in the breast are benign calcifications which are made up of small deposits of calcium, as opposed to cancer cells. However, breast calcifications should still be evaluated because in some instances, they can be indicative of a very early form of breast cancer, which can usually be treated successfully. Calcifications can usually be detected by feel and can also be identified on a mammogram, where they appear as white spots.</p><br /><p><h2>Three Classifications of Calcifications</h2></p><br /><p>There are three different types of calcifications in the breast, and only one of the three possibilities is indicative of cancer. The first type is benign calcification, and according to California Pacific Medical Center, this is the most common type of calcification. When a calcification is benign, the usual course of action is to continue to monitor it with routine mammograms. The second type of calcification refers to a probably benign calcification. This means that there is less than a 2 percent chance that the calcification is indicative of, or will become, breast cancer. The third and final type of calcification is a suspicious calcification. Even suspicious calcifications do not necessarily mean cancer; a biopsy must be performed to determine whether the calcification is an early form of breast cancer. According to California Pacific Medical Center, only one in four to five patients with a suspicious calcification actually has breast cancer, and the cancer is still usually very early.</p><br /><p><h2>Determine if a Calcification is Cancer</h2></p><br /><p>After you discover a calcification, a doctor will classify it into one of the above three groups using a series of tests. X-rays may be used to determine the shape, size and quantity of the calcifications. The University of Cincinnati Netwellness website offers guidelines to help you determine whether a calcification is cancer. Benign, non-cancerous calcifications are generally large chunks, which are visible and do not fit in the breast ducts. Microcalcifications--tiny specks in the breast ducts--are more likely to be indicative of cancer or pre-cancerous. If clusters of microcalcifications appear, or if they appear within one breast only, the chances that they are precancerous is higher. A needle biopsy or surgical biopsy may also be required to draw cells from the calcification in order to evaluate them under a microscope to check for the presence of abnormal cells that indicates cancer.</p><br /><p><h2>Non-Cancerous Causes of Calcifications</h2></p><br /><p>Aging is one major cause of breast calcifications. Bone disorders or conditions is another. As a person ages, calcium from the bones tends to break down and leave the bones. As it does so, it can become deposited in other parts of the body. When calcium becomes deposited in the breast, these breast calcifications can occur.</p><br /><p><h2>Monitoring Calcifications</h2></p><br /><p>Benign calcifications do not need to be monitored. They will not change from benign to malignant. If a calcification is cancer, or malignant, it is always cancerous and just becomes more dangerous as it grows. According to California Pacific Medical Center, although the risk of possibly benign calcifications actually being cancer is less than 2 percent, these possibly benign calcificaitons should still be monitored. The calcification can be monitored as part of a mammogram, but the frequency of mammograms should be increased form every year to every six months. If no changes are seen in the calcification within a year, patients can return to their regularly scheduled annual mammogram.</p><br /><p><h2>Dietary Factors</h2></p><br /><p>Diet and calcium supplements do not cause calcifications, nor does an excess of calcium in your diet. Hormone therapy is also not a cause. Bone breakdown is the most common explanation, but there is no clear reason why some women get calcifications and others do not.</p><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/xff79Y82jng" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/xff79Y82jng" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05836530204685420918noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2695948067369633769.post-10730087983581020102014-03-11T20:31:00.000-07:002014-03-11T21:15:39.051-07:00Antifungals To Cure Candida<p>Antifungals to Cure Candida</p><br /><p>Candida albicans is the species of yeast that can cause thrush, yeast infections and candidiasis. Naturopathic doctors believe that candida can be controlled through natural methods like diet and supplementation with antifungal foods and herbs. Here are a few methods for bringing the fungal infection under control. Consult a doctor before making massive changes in your diet or taking supplements.</p><br /><p><h2>Attacking With Diet</h2></p><br /><p>The first thing you should do upon being diagnosed with any type of candida overgrowth is to change your diet. Alcohol and sugars are pro-fungus foods and should be severely limited. Since it is believed that fungal overgrowth is a result of an imbalance between the bacteria and the fungus in the body, the first candida killer you should take is a probiotic such as acidophilus. Use it in supplement form and in the form of yogurts with bacterial culture. The omega-3 fatty acids in fish and flax-seed oil have anti-fungal properties, and they should be supplemented every day. Vitamins B3 and C, and the minerals selenium and zinc are anti-fungal when used in high enough doses. Try mixing a vitamin supplement with dandelion greens and chicken breast to get good sources of all four nutrients. Grains and vegetables should also be consumed as they are high in fiber and can help to flush out the toxins caused by candida. As it is simple and affordable, try this diet plan for a few weeks to see if these changes affect your candida-related symptoms.</p><br /><p><h2>Herbs and Tea</h2></p><br /><p>There are many herbs that have anti-fungal properties. If diet change alone has not been enough to stop your candida, the next step is to add some effective herbal remedies. Garlic has been shown to have yeast-fighting properties along with boosting the immune system. Add it in food or take it in capsule form. Ginger tea may help to heal infected tissues and kill fungus. Take one cup with each meal. Aloe vera juice has natural enzymes that are anti-fungal, immune-boosting and bowel-regulating. Try two cups a day taken if and when you experience stomach pain. Use these three herbs in addition to your diet for two weeks and examine any differences in your candida infection.</p><br /><p><h2>External Remedies</h2></p><br /><p>Not all forms of candidiasis will manifest externally, but in the cases of thrush and vaginal yeast infections you should begin these external treatments as soon as you start your diet. Aloe vera gel can be used externally as well as internally to help with your symptoms with thrush or vaginal yeast infections. For candida on the skin, you can use tea tree oil, which helps against all sorts of bacteria and fungus. Here is an herbal yeast infection remedy that can be sprinkled onto the problem area. Mix 1 cup of fine white clay, 2 tbsps of black walnut hull powder, #xBD; cup of cornstarch, 2 tbsps of myrrh powder, 1 tbsp of goldenseal powder,and a drop or two of tea tree oil. Mix them using a wire whisk and put some of the mixture in a spice shaker and some in a glass jar for storage. This is called Yoni Powder, and it can be applied at the first sign of symptoms.</p><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/tZlSZHSg3hU" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/tZlSZHSg3hU" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05836530204685420918noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2695948067369633769.post-38444020378321772222014-03-10T20:46:00.009-07:002014-03-10T21:26:32.813-07:00Wiring A Replacement Electric Motor<br><br />I am replacing an electric motor that went bad, and bought a similar model (Marathon model 5KC49TN0063Y). It's a reversible 1hp dual voltage, we're using the low voltage.<br />We can't figure out wire the new motor. There are seven wires on the new motor, Orange, Brown, Red, Black, White, Yellow, and Purple (and a ground screw)<br />The old motor only had four wires connected from the reversing switch, (plus the ground wire makes five), but there isn't a direct correlation between the old and the new.<br />Looking at the new motor diagram, and using the way the old motor was connected, I think we need to connect the yellow and white from the motor to the white on the switch. We need to connect the black on the motor to the orange on the switch. Red connects to Red. But now we're left with a black from the switch, and an orange, brown, and purple on the motor. I think we may need to combine the orange and brown on the motor, so does that leave purple connecting to black?<br />New Motor Wiring Diag<br />New Motor Model Info<br />Old Motor Wiring Diag<br />Old Motor Model Info<br /> <br />Blk, wht and yel tie together and attach to one line. Tie brn, org and red together and install wire nut. Attach Prpl to second line.<br /> <br />We need either a wiring diagram of the reversing switch or a detailed description of what switch wires hookup up to what terminals on the old motor. Without one of those we can't tell you hook it up correctly.<br />One other option would be to use a ohmmeter/continuity tester and ring out the wiring on the switch. Make sure the power is off and unhook the switch. Put the switch in the forward position and test all the pairs to see which have continuity and which don't. Toggle the switch to the reverse position and do the same thing. Let us know this information and we can figure out the correct wiring. Also let us know where the line power comes in and what terminals it is connected to.<br /> <br />Thanks for your reply Ben, you stated exactly what I've been thinking.. I didn't supply enough information about the reversing switch.<br />I planned to test the switch as you stated, and then wire as the diagram indicates (and as CasualJoe echoed), except pulling the black out of the wht/yel/blk trio, and pulling the red out of the brn/org/red trio, so that I can tie those to the wires that the switch is reversing.<br />I opened the switch, and the black and white wires come in and out with the same color, and the orange and red are the ones that are reversed.<br />This is how I plan to proceed:<br />I will hook the white wire from the switch to the white/yellow on the motor. I will hook the black wire from the switch to the purple on the motor. I will hook the orange and red from the switch to the black and red on the motor, and test the direction for forward/reverse, and then swap those if it runs opposite from what's expected.<br />Does that sound like a solid plan?<br /><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/Mnz82o1XYeg" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/Mnz82o1XYeg" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br /><b>Tags</b>: wiring, electric, motor, from switch, reversing switch, will hook, black motor, Diag Motor, Diag Motor Model, Diag Motor Model Info, Model Info, Motor ModelAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05836530204685420918noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2695948067369633769.post-85897052091352615492014-03-10T20:46:00.008-07:002014-03-10T21:26:21.743-07:00Thermostat Wiring Help Illustrations Included<br><br />I recently purchased a Climatouch CT03TS32H programmable thermostat. It's a pretty nice unit that really does a lot more right now than I need, but I'd like to go ahead and hook it up before I start messing with the humidistat and ext temp input.<br />I'd appreciate if someone in the know could help make sure I'm hooking the wires up to the right inputs.<br />Furnace: Lennox<br />AC: Lennox<br />Here is the Climatouch units inputs. I had to write in the letters so that it was easier for everyone to read.<br />http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/BQuicksilver/Climatouch.jpg<br />Here is the wiring on our current thermostat. It looks like I have 4 wires (R, W, G, Y) and one wire that connects RH and RC.<br />http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/BQuicksilver/Sears.jpg<br />I was thinking this would be my layout on the new thermostat:<br />- R to RC and RH (same as old unit)<br />- G to G (same as old unit)<br />- W to W1 (?) - is this for the heater<br />- Y to Y1 (?) - is this for the AC compressor<br /> <br />You have it right. Turn the power off first so you dont short the transformer.<br />R is power so you need the jumper from RC too RH<br />G is fan W is heat and Y is cool.<br />Be sure and read all the papers that came with it and be sure and set it like it said . keep the paper works<br /> <br />Well, I wired it up, and the unit looked wonderful. I was setting the date/time and then it started making a clicking sound about 2x/sec and the furnace seemed to be making an attempt at turning on. Next thing I know it's completely dead.<br />I fear the worst, what happened?<br /> <br />I did come across this in the troubleshooting section, but it was over my head. Maybe there is something here?<br />Issue: Thermostat appears normal until the screen becomes blank when the compressor or heating system turns on<br />Solution: You need to connect the C wire. 4 wire systems will not function unless the heat and compressor contactors can supply enough current to power the thermostat with only 4 wires. If you cannot hook up the C wire another possible solution is to connect two 100ohm 10watt resistors in the HVAC room, one between Y and C, and the second between W2 and C.<br /> <br />Sounds like you got a power stealing t=stat...<br />You will need to pull another wire or maybe got one behind the wall? And wire C at the t-stat and furnace.<br />Otherwise, if you can't do the wire, then go to radio shack and get the resister (Unless they provide them with the t-stat?) Install that as they said in the manual.<br /> <br />There are a couple more wires stuffed behind the thermostat that were not being used, but I'm not sure ID which one is C.<br /> <br />The Climatouch automated tech support line described my problem verbatim and said that C needs connected.<br />The unused wires behind my thermostat aren't marked, so it isn't as easy as ID'ing the blue wire. Is there a way to ID by voltage?<br />My furnace has an old unused humidifier, so I assume at least one of the two wires is for it.<br /> <br />Pull a wire.. (Blue) out of the wall, and wire that to C.<br />Then go down to the furnace, and you should have blue wire hanging there or wrapped up. tie that to C on the board..<br />Make sure you turn off power when do this.<br /> <br />I did find a wire with blue cloth insulation pushed back into the wall, and wired it to the blue wire from the furnace and C terminal, but the thermostat still did nothing after I kicked the breaker back on.<br />Any ideas? I feel like I need to have my voltmeter and wire tracer out, but I'm really not sure what to look for.<br /> <br />The wire tracer confirmed that I have continuity from furnace to thermostat.<br />I did notice that the furnace had a blue AND dark blue wire coming from it. Neither made the thermostat wake up.<br />I took a voltmeter and no voltage was registered on any of the wires coming into the thermostat, including red and blue wires.<br />Ideas? It's getting cold here.<br />I'm assuming the issue is a lack of power to the unit, but have no idea what the root of this issue might be.<br /> <br />Update again.<br />Power 15A was getting to furnace, pilot light (i think that's the term - the small blue flame) was running inside the furnace so I assume it's not a gas issue (Lennox Furnace). I could not get any voltage on the small wires coming out of the furnace.<br />I assume something in the transformer gave up...I assume.<br />Does anyone have some high yield advice for what to look at now?<br /> <br />Transformer had 120in, nothing out and stunk like it was fried.<br />I'm not really sure what I did that fried it. I wired with power off, and when it fired up there was no drama until the furnace tried to kick on...then the clicking started.<br /> <br />Did you ring out the blue you used for common at the furnace at the tstat??? R to that blue gave you 24V??<br /> <br />Originally Posted by Ed Imeduc<br />Did you ring out the blue you used for common at the furnace at the tstat??? R to that blue gave you 24V??<br />I think the transformer was fried way before I ever found the blue wire. No juice was coming from either red or blue. I'm still not sure exactly why the transformer died.<br />Since nobody in town would sell one to a DIYer I just called an HVAC guy (friend of neighbor) and said to come over with one in hand. I'll probably get the inspection and double-check the wiring while he's here.<br />I couldn't sit in the cold and wait for one to show from EBay or wherever.<br /> <br />When you first wired up the t-stat, did you turn off the power?<br />if you got a burnt smell, you may of shorted out the transfromer.<br />Keep us posted on what the guy finds for you.<br /> <br />Well, we're up and running now.<br />I did turn off power before wiring, but the transformer was also fried.<br />The problem was that some of the 24V wires were connected improperly on the transformer side, so while I was conecting things to the correct color terminals everywhere, some of the wires weren't what they should have been per the color...notably Y and C. I believe this caused a transformer failure early on and then from that point nothing I did mattered without any power from the transformer. Somehow this wiring setup worked fine with the old Sears T-stat we had, but not with the new unit.<br />Problem solved, but I'm $133 poorer.<br /> <br />Well, It could of been worse... But glad to hear you are back up and running.<br /> <br />some of the wires weren't what they should have been per the color...notably Y and C. I believe this caused a transformer failure early on<br />Thats what got you. That Y is hot or the same as R when calling. So if it got near C then you have a dead short to the transformer<br /> <br />I ca not completely hook up my new Honeywell RTH5001B thermostat. The wires on the old thermostat are B,R,G,W2,Y,X and E. The spots on the new thermostat are Rc,R,Y,NOT USED,W and G. Can anyyone help? Thank You in advanced.<br /> <br />Originally Posted by ckhamm1976<br />I ca not completely hook up my new Honeywell RTH5001B thermostat.<br />I can't find that model #.<br />Is your system a heat pump?<br />What is the make and model of the old t-stat?<br /><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/bYxSTCCg5GA" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/bYxSTCCg5GA" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br /><b>Tags</b>: thermostat, wiring, help, blue wire, should have, some wires, turn power, albums v638, albums v638 BQuicksilver, been color, been color notably, been color notably believe, been color notably believe this, behind thermostatAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05836530204685420918noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2695948067369633769.post-86503816489940750312014-03-10T20:46:00.007-07:002014-03-10T21:26:09.032-07:00Robert Shaw 7000 Series Gas Valve<br><br />I have a robert shaw gas valve mili volt and it was installed in 2007 not part of any recalls.<br />When I shut the gas valve off and turn it back on to pilot i hear a hissing of gas. the same sound as if i depress the valve when it is on pilot. I then shut off the valve and wait about a minute and i hear a clicking sound in the valve and then when i turn the valve back on to pilot I do not hear the hissing of gas until i press the depress the valve in the pilot position and then i relite it and turn it on.<br />I would like to no if this is common in the valve the Thermocouple may be still hot and takes time to cool off. The lighting instructions say wait five minutes before lighting. If that were the case The valve would of clicked off and i would never of heard the hissing of gas.<br /> <br />Yes, it is normal. The thermocouple (or maybe you have a thermopile system) generates a voltage that holds the pilot valve open while the pilot is burning. It takes a minute or so for the thermocouple to cool enough to de-energize the pilot valve when the pilot flame goes out.<br /> <br />Customers: Robertshaw Controls Company, in cooperation with the U.S. Consumer ...<br />toolbox.invensyscontrols.com/robertshawrecall/7000.html - C<br />You may want to check out this recall<br /> <br />I no about that recall my gas control valve was made in 2007. I have seen two or three different lighting instructions and they all say wait (5 minutes) even if you wait two minutes before relighting the pilot the unit would click off and the problem that I have experienced would never show up. The thermocouple would of cooled off by then.<br /> <br />I just installed a new gas valve sent to me buy the manufacturer and it does the same thing as the old one. I talked to someone at robert shaw and he said it takes about a minute for the valve to close when you shut it off. My concern now is when I go to light it and if I do not hold the button in long enough when I light it and the flame goes out and I relight it right away. I turn it to pilot and the gas comes in without pushing on the button and I light the pilot it stays on. Robert shaw is looking into that for me. I am wondering if you shut the unit off when it was on and wait the 5 minutes I do not have the problem. I am also wondering when you try and light the pilot and it does not work the first time you wait 5 minutes and then relight the pilot. The last time I tried and the pilot did not stay on after the first try I shut it off and waited a few hours and then came back and relighted the pilot and it worked like it was supposed to.<br />Maybe the key is when you shut it off or it does not light on the first, second or third try you have to wait 5 minutes after each try before you relight the pilot.<br /><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/ywZoT4h8fSU" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/ywZoT4h8fSU" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br /><b>Tags</b>: robert, shaw, 7000, valve, wait minutes, when light, about minute, back pilot, back pilot hear, back pilot hear hissingAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05836530204685420918noreply@blogger.com