oil vs. water-based stains...the great debate...
So I'm working on getting my deck ready to restain, but I'm having difficulty deciding what type stain to use. The info below is what I came up with after reviewing several articles about oil and water-based stains. It's enough to make your head hurt I'm leaning towards the oil-based stain mainly because it appears to be easier to re-apply the stain from year-to-year, has better durability, and apparently with a darker oil-based stain, the grains can still come through. So, can anyone comment on what your experience has been with either (or both)? From other reivews, it sounded like Cabots would be the way to go. Thanks for you input. I'm pretty sure the deck is made out of some type of pine. Andy =============================== Water – Pros quick dry time lasts 2-3 years less odor non-flammable retains color better easy cleanup more environmentally friendly Water-Cons Uses a pigment that is more opaque, to some extent masking the beauty of the natural grain (but this tends to block the destructive action of the sun’s rays) Refinishing process can be more work. It’s often necessary to remove the old water-based stain entirely before a fresh coat is applied, which usually requires a combination of sanding, stripping, and scraping. Oils-Pros Requires less upkeep and less frequent re-coating Penetrates deeper and excellent durability in tough*conditions Allows the appearance of the wood grain to come through, even if you have chosen a dark stain Restaining is much less involved. The wood simply needs to be cleaned of dirt, grime, and mildew, then recoated. There’s no need to recoat the entire deck if you don’t have to; just touch up the areas that need it. Might need moderate sanding Harder finish when dry Recommended for surfaces exposed to harsh weather (e.g. decks and fences) Oils-Cons longer drying time (but this provides a more even finish) need to re-stain every 1-2 years strong odor due to additives. Oil-based stains are a a breeding ground for mildew and fungus, so toxic chemicals have to be included in the stain to keep wood from rotting. flammable must use mineral spirits or paint thinner for cleanup harsher on the environment requires more frequent maintenance There are actually 3 choices Sometimes waterborne stains get confused with water based. Waterborne stains have a lot of the characteristics of oil base stain but clean up with water. Most have a short recoat window and must have the majority of the stain removed before restaining. Often the weather will remove the majority so a full all out strip isn't necessary. If water still beads - it needs stripping, otherwise it's ok to restain after cleaning. Waterborne stains dry quick BUT it takes them a day or two to cure enough where a heavy rain won't wash it off or dilute it. You can get clear, translucent and semi-transparent stains in waterborne. Generally the heavier the body and the more pigment a stain has - the longer it will hold up. Latex stains dries and cures fast. There usually isn't any restrictions on recoating. Latex stains tend to have the best color retention. Solid latex is the most popular but some make a semi-transparent latex stain. Oil base does penetrate the best and gives the best protection but the sun can cause it to loose it's color. Waterborne stains are usually my first choice with oil base being my second. My Cabots smi-transparent (oil base) stain is not drying. I did everything I was suppose to do, but it's been a week and it's still sticky. Help? Will it eventually dry? 2nd question. Can you use ( after power washing) water base stain after having used oil stain before? Thanks Welcome to the forums Ramrod! What prep did you do? what are the air temperatures? Have you contacted Cabot's customer service? Waterbased stains can be applied over oil base stains AFTER the oil base has weathered a few yrs. The stain needs to loose most of it's waterproofing qualities before a waterbased stain can be applied and expected to adhere. I doubt PWing would remove enough of the stain.
Related Posts:
Problem staining oak floor cant get it dark enough
problem staining oak floor - can't get it dark enoughHi guys, I have oak wood floor, probably red oak. And the stain is Sherwin Willams Wood Classic oil stain, mixed by the store manager to my lik...
Oil or water based kilz primer
Oil Or Water Based Kilz Primer ?Hello, I have a water stain (brownish) on my bathroom ceiling. Problem has been corrected, and I don't expect a repeat. Would like to put Kilz Primer/Sealer over th...
Looking for oilbased primer and textured paint with no voc
Looking for oil-based primer and textured paint with no VOCI need to paint over some wallpaper, and I've heard it's best to use oil-based primer. I also need a textured paint because the walls are...
Poly finish on stair treads scratches very easily
Poly finish on stair treads scratches very easilyI purchased a jug of expensive water based polyurethane from Richilieu (about $125) that contractors generally would use (from bad experience I wan...
Need a spray gun for painting trim doors
Need a spray gun for painting trim / doorsI am remodeling my home and am looking for a spray gun to do all my new trim and doors with. I will be putting on latex paint on all items. What type of g...
