I sanded my wood floors with total perfection. Even going to a hand sander scrubbing for a week to get everything perfect.
I then went to Home Depot asked what I should use to cover the bare wood but to keep the light wood color. They told me to put down 3 coats of polycrylic.
Here's the polycrylic info. http://www.minwax.com/products/prote...polycrylic.cfm
After the 2nd coat I looked at that webpage on the minwax site saw the following sentence. Polycrylic is not recommended for use on floors because it would require more frequent recoating in high traffic areas. Instead, we recommend Minwax Super Fast-Drying Polyurethane for Floors or Minwax Water-Based Polyurethane for Floors.
I exploded after reading that went back to Home Depot. The clerk said he never heard about that gave me a free can of an oil based Polyurethane for Floors.
Here's the info on the Polyeurathane for Floors. http://www.minwax.com/products/prote...super-fast.cfm
He said put that over the existing water based polycrylic I'll be fine. I told him I only put it on 1 room all my other rooms were still exposed wood. He said it would be fine, all the rooms would still be the same color when completed.
I used Clear Satin in both the Polycrylic the Polyurethane for Floors.
Well, first off, is it OK to even put that oil based Polyeurthane over a water based Polycrylic?
I did a 2nd room with just the clear Satin Polyurethane for floors the floor turned a DARK brown.
It's an oak floor.
Can someone please help me?
How can I protect the bare wood floors leave it as natural a color as possible? ...and what should I do with the existing 2 rooms now? The one with the polycrylic and the other with the clear satin Polyeurethane for floors that turned dark?
Oil based finishes tend to bring out the grain more (darken) than water based finishes. I personally prefer the oil based look to the water based. I like seeing the grain. You have an interesting situation. I have never used minwax finish on floors but have used it on other projects and find it to hold up well.
First off, the floor that has a water based finish can only be topped with water base. You can't put oil on top of it. The oil based floor can have water based put over it.
Really, the only way you can get the floors to look the same is to sand it all down again and start over with the same finish on everything.
While I don't think the HD people get very much right, they didn't ruin your floor. You did the work and bought the product. They aren't flooring professionals and you should always check the answers they give. Even I have listened to their advice.
If you put a good quality water on top of everything, you shouldn't have any wear issues. You will only have to deal with the color difference.
Good Luck
Bryan
Bryan Posted....First off, the floor that has a water based finish can only be topped with water base. You can't put oil on top of it. The oil based floor can have water based put over it.
I think the information above is incorrect and the only way to find out what you really should do is to call Minwax and see if they can help. In most instances you can put oil over water but NOT the other way around. Water ontop of oil does not work....from my experience anyways.
HOWEVER I agree with Bryan in saying it is best if you start all over again.
Rainie
Minwax told me to try putting the oil based polyurethane for floors over the water based polycrylic. That answer angered me as it didn't tell me a damn thing. I needed a yes or no. All the help line could tell me was try.
Besides having to sand one of the floors down, I have no idea what to do now. Putting 2 coats of Polycrylic then one coat of polyurethane for floors keeps the floor a light color. Putting 2 coats of polyurethane for floors directly on the bare wood turns it a very dark color.
What the heck am I supposed to do to protect this floor keep it as light as possible?
Varathane (Flecto) makes a polycrylic for floors.
Rainie
seasideheights,
We used satin Flecto Diamond water based floor finish when we redid our maple floors and am happy with the results.
If you want all the floors to be the same color I would suggest you take your lumps and just sand off the old finish and start again.
I will say that when we did our floor, the previous owner had refinished it a few years before and had sanded it with an orbital hand sander.
We used the rental 18 square vibrating sander and had a heck of a time levelling the surface because the hand sanding left an irregular surface.
Click image:
Image credit: rustoleum.com
GregH, Where did you buy it from?
GregH,
How long have you had it on the floor? How has it held up?
Did it yellow or turn the floor dark when you put it on?
How many coats did you put on the bare wood?
Did you put anything between the bare wood the Varathane Diamond Floor Finish?
This was the product you used? http://www.rustoleum.com/Product.asp...2SBL=1dds=24
It will be eight years next month that we bought this house and did the floors.
I originally wanted to darken the lightness of the maple floor but did not like the way the water based stain looked.
We sanded it off and just went with the natural color and I'm glad we did.
Except for the dining room it has worn exceptionally well.
The strain of a family of five sliding chairs was too much.
Because we took the time to level the hand sanded job it will not take a lot of time to redo it.
I put down three coats which did not change the color of the wood.
I had some difficulty because I applied the finish in very hot weather which caused the finish to dry too quickly.
On the advice of the mfr I turned on the a/c and put the Varathane in the fridge which took care of the fast drying problem.
Tags: advice, floors, water based, bare wood, Polyurethane Floors, based floor, over water, base based, base based floor, base based floor have, base based floor have water, based finish
